Not sure if this is reliable, it's just what I found searching online. I was looking at a travel router that can be tunneled to my home router in the US to prevent my employer from recognizing that I am abroad while logged into their laptop, and shows my home address as the IP.

I can't download any software on my work laptop so I imagine the travel router will need to have a VPN, and my plan is to use it via ethernet only with wifi turned off on the laptop.

Anyone know if this is reliable? And does the VPN have to be on the travel router in this case (since I can't add one to my work laptop)?

Good morning, basically I'm a professional photographer who specialises in sports. I need internet on my laptop for uploading photos mid game. My phone hotspot always struggles in stadiums and stadium WiFi is absolutely garbage.

Is there anything I can plug in to my laptop to give it high speed internet while I'm out and about?

Thanks

I have been searching for good paraphraser or humanizer which i can use to humanize the AI generated content. Do you guys know any good ones??

................

Was hoping to get recommendations on a dashcam. I guess I'm looking for something that records and uploads to a cloud based service automatically and is accessible from my phone. Is there anything like that?

So I went to an estate sale and bought an ubotie keyboard and mouse, they said it worked. It's a "sweet wireless keyboard" with number pad, no USB port nor power switch. I only know its powered on from the battery light that flashes when I place the battery in. I've scoured the internet for information on how to pair it to my ipad. Tried holding down Fn+C and Fn+1 (for a while) and neither worked. I'm losing hope please help

Hello, I've a Lenovo legion laptop and I could play most AAA games on it without any problems until recently. Now games like GTA 5 & GTA 4 are lagging and they stop abruptly. I also clicked a picture of an error message displayed when I was trying to play GTA 5 last. It said 'ERR_GFX_D3D_INIT Failed Initialization. Please reboot and restart the game. Try reinstalling the game if this persists.

Please guide me as to what the issues can be. I really want to play games like I was able to earlier.

Looking for a charger for my SamsungA16, browsing amazon and found a samsung 25w for 19 euros but it arrives in 2 weeks. Don't know other brands so I'd like some recommendations please

The screen of my Lenovo Yoga Slim 7 13ACN5 goes black after it's being locked for a while. I bought the laptop in 2021 and the issue appeared in 2022 so I've been dealing with this issue 3 of the 4 years I own this laptop (At the time I wrote this post)

I did try basically everything imaginable so it would be a long list if I would have to mention everything I did one by one to solve the black screen issue. For example I did multiple clean installs of Windows 11 sinds the black screen issue on my laptop appeared but sadly without success.

I've then done some more research since I suspected that the black screen issue is a hardware issue. After that I had a discussion with ChatGPT about this issue and he mentioned that it could be a hardware issue.

I want to buy a new laptop with a larger screen after around 6 months from now because I want a laptop with a larger screen but since I'll be using my laptop until then and I want full clarity about the black screen issue I want to ask if the black screen issue is indeed a hardware issue or a issue related to something else.

Thanks in advance for your insight and help lastly!

I'll start this with some examples.

I bought a Windows 11 Dell Inspiron that originally shipped with Windows 10, all reviews said I can expect solid battery life, I even checked with the seller to get me the battery diagnostics from cmd, to make sure it hasn't regraded much, I reran them myself on purchase – all was well. And yet, I usually got 2 to 3 hours of battery life from it, barely half of what was to be reasonably expected. I tried diagnosing it and doing all the steps, but still, barely 3 hours.

I bought a Fire TV Stick from Amazon, tested it with my grandma's TV and it worked fine, shipped it home and even though all is factory reset, the remote doesn't pair. To be more precise, the remote does pair, I can pair it as a HID device to any BT device, and I can read the raw data off unpaired connected Fire TV stick via BLE, but they just don't pair. I've done all the tricks, different everything, doesn't work.

My uncle has a Fire TV Stick too and his remote works except it doesn't turn the TV on, CEC is odd technology, okay, but funnily enough the only way to turn it on then is via Alexa? Which means CEC is okay? But with a catch, it only works half the time, the other half Alexa just lights down and doesn't do anything.

Not to mention Spotify constantly glitching when streaming to speakers, Google Photos randomly rejecting some video filetypes when uploaded from some device, my Mi Band randomly rebooting in the middle of the night, and much more.

I miss the times when I could just turn on my TV and it would play something, I miss the times when I would open up my MP3 player and it would reliably play music in my wired headphones. Now I feel like we have all the features but none of the reliability. Every TV is 'smart' but I use it much less than the dumb ones I used to have. What a world.

I know programming is hard, and when I was so frustrated with the state of so many health tracker apps, all cloud connected and randomly failing, I just wrote my own...and I was honestly shocked when it just. plain. worked. no strings attached.

Is this just me?

Hey everyone, So there’s a food delivery app in my country that works kind of like Uber Eats. The app has built-in mini games (stuff like Flappy Bird or other type of minigames) where you can earn points if you get the highest scores. I’m trying to figure out if there’s a way to set up a bot or automation tool on iPhone that can play these games automatically and rack up points.

Does anyone know of any iOS tools, bots, or automation methods that could handle this?

I have a Hotmail account, a Gmail account and an Amazon account. Years ago, I managed to remove my phone number from the first 2 and added an authenticator app for 2FA. When I bought Yubikeys (from Amazon), I added them to my Gmail, Hotmail and Amazon accounts, as well as other services (like MongoDB, Github). However, I was having difficulty removing my phone number from Aamzon, until I read a Reddit post that I can remove the phone number once I disable 2-step verification. I did that, removed the phone number, and re-enabled 2-step verification. I am able to confirm that the authenticator app is the only way to access my Amazon account from any device not already logged in.

Here is the thing, I know full well that phone number based authentication is subject to SIM swapping. I know this because I successfully perpetrated an act of SIM swapping years ago against my "sister" (in quotes, because the phone was really used by me, but the cellular account was under her name). Time based authentication is safe as long as there isn't a keylogger or other malware on your computer and you don't share the QR code/alphanumeric seed with anyone. Plus, the seed can be shared amongst devices you own, making it trivial to backup.

The thing is, Google, Microsoft and Amazon keep warning me that it is not safe or that the account is not recoverable if I lose the TOTP. But I have the codes on both my phone and my computer, which is impossible with SMS (You can't possibly set anything up where 2 phones would ring at the same time when a call is placed to a single number, right?). Why would tech companies write misinformation like this? I mean, it is obviously not true. Adding a phone number neither increases account safety, nor does it make things easier to back up/recover. I am 2/3 finished with a college diploma in computer programming and have learned about things like OAuth (a standard that can be implemented in frameworks like Next.js via something called "next-auth").

https://www.bestbuy.com/product/hp-15-6-touch-screen-laptop-amd-ryzen-5-16gb-memory-256gb-ssd-natural-silver/JJGQJR9PRW/sku/6612255?sb_share_source=PDP

https://store.steampowered.com/app/1671570/Out_and_About/

I’ve been trying to solve this problem for my in laws for a few weeks and I’m getting nowhere.

They have a Sonos Beam connected to a TCL 735 tv via HDMI/eArc. My father in law has Oticon hearing aids and there is an Optical cable running from the tv to an Oticon “Box”. The hearing aids connect to the Oticon Box via Bluetooth.

I cannot get sound to output both to the Beam and the Oticon box (the hearing aids are connected).

What is odd is that this used to work. When they first got the Beam I had the setup as it is now, and TV audio would play out through the Beam and the hearing aids. It was only a month ago when I connected my Bluetooth headphones to the tv and then set everything back that suddenly the hearing aids were not receiving anything.

I bought an “HDMI eARC (CEC) audio extractor) but that’s not working either. The Sonos app shows that it is receiving audio and the tv remote changes the tv volume, but there is no sound through the hearing aids or the Beam.

Does anyone have any experience of solving this problem?

I have a few .dcv files and was wondering if it is possible to convert them to .mkv files

Looking for some outside perspective While digging into my Windows I found some things that do not look normal. An unsigned EXE dropped into System32 under Winlogon. A custom network driver unsigned .sys with a silent INF installer. it hooks into NDIS and behaves like it is tunneling. IPV6 ULA routing is showing like its acting as hidden internal tunnel. Full disclosure. I have an ex husband who is very tech savvy , still claiming he is not, but I have an active restraining order on him at the moment.

I guess in big picture my question would be

What kind of set ups would leave traces of these? unsigned auto start EXE, custom tunneling drivers, and surveillance? Also, he favored updates ( what looked legit ) for a long time , bluetooth, and wallet/Radio stuff. Homemade VPN? rootkit? Is there something I'm missing that would be legit? He handmade a lot of EXE that I ended up finding.

Thanks for reading, and I miss reddit. I just didn't feel comfortable online for a long time. so its a brand new baby account. But I appreciate any input.

I have a refurbished 2017 13" Macbook Air, I've had it for the last 8 or so years, and it works great. I had the battery and internals replaced in the last 5 years. But Apple is no longer rolling out updates for it, and I'm getting worried about security/losing capability. It also tends to run pretty hot and is starting to struggle with multitasking.

I'm a student and I mostly use my computer for school. But I also like to play the occasional steam game. I'm looking for a computer with 16+ GB RAM storage and 500+ GB total storage. I would like it to be 13" (or around that, for portability). Something like a fingerprint-to-unlock feature would be nice, but isn't necessary.

I'm not married to Apple, but I don't want something that runs Windows because I really don't like CoPilot. I'm open to exploring Linux (and was considering experimenting with Linux on my current computer, once I have a newer, reliable model for schoolwork). I also prefer refurbished models (for many reasons).

I'm hoping to buy something in the next couple of weeks, so I can take advantage of Labor day and back-to-school sales. It would be tough for me to buy something over $1500, but I'm open to anything under $2000. Any suggestions?

I have a MacBook Pro that I have to use for work and a desktop PC I use as well. They're both connected to a 4K monitor--the Macbook Pro connects by USB-C and the PC connects with an HDMI cable. Each has their own bluetooth keyboard and mouse.

When I want to go from the Mac to the PC for example, I change the input on the monitor with the button on the back of it, then physically move the Mac's keyboard/mouse to the side and put the PC's keyboard/mouse in it's place. Not bad if I only had to do it every now and then but I switch numerous times per day.

I could remote desktop into the PC but sometimes I want it for games and obviously remote desktop wouldn't be ideal for that.

Is there a way I can change my setup so that I can seamlessly use the same keyboard/mouse?

Hello. I used to have a 2013 macbook pro for some time and I used it for almost everything(school, media, movies, gaming), but it broke recently, so I decided to buy a tablet.

I've seen a lot of good tablets like: 1. Honor magicpad 2 or 3 2. Huawei matepad pro 12.2 3. Lenovo yoga tab plus 4. Samsung galaxy s10 ultra or plus 5. One plus tab 2

But I don't know which one to buy or if I should even buy a tablet instead of a laptop.

So, what do I buy?

I manage a few devices at home and considering upgrading my network. For heavy device usage (smart home, laptops, IoT), does a modern mesh system outperform a single Wi-Fi 6 router in real-world performance?

I’ve been thinking of upgrading my setup with an ultrawide monitor, but I’m not sure if it’s just hype. Do they really make a big difference for productivity or is it just nice for gaming and movies?

I’m looking into doing an online course for recreation and was wondering what the best type of laptop is for online school. I’m just not entirely sure what brands are the best and which ones can handle my work with school. I’m open to any brand I just want something that’s durable and can handle downloading stuff for the course. Thanks 🙏

Here's the situation: I have a 3d printer out in my garage that reads a USB stick, and doesn't have wireless connectivity. It's a chore to keep moving the USB from my garage, to my office computer, and back whenever I want to add a file.

Is there such a device that acts like a normal USB flash drive when plugged into a port, that I can also connect to wirelessly so that I can add files to it from my office PC while it's plugged into my printer in the garage?

I'm certain something like this exists, but my google-foo is failing me.