Yeah I know it's up the the contractor to get this across the finish line, but the project is 4 months past the original planned completion date and I need the final inspection complete so we can use it. The "electrician" is unavailable because I think they legitimately got deported so the contract is just hoping the inspector doesn't check it. I know they'll get it fixed eventuality, but I just need it done.

I redid 17 2 gang outlets that were wired like this, which provided no gfi protection to the other outlet. Whenever a pigtail was needed, I did it with wago and not wire nuts. My next tool purchase will be needle nose plairs without any ridges to avoid any damage to the insulation when straightening out from being twisted.

I'm not mad, just disappointed.

It is Ebonized red oak with Padauk (the orangish-red wood)"racing stripes" and accents. The cabinet and leg are both solid 6/4 red oak wrapped in carbon fiber. The Lamborghini logo is an actual Lamborghini hood emblem, and this whole build took me three months to finish from start to end. (I would post more photos, but they are all over 20 mb, so I can't :( )

We need to baby proof these stairs from a toddler and preschooler. I’m worried about the ledge between the railing and the stairs. It looks like a balance beam and it goes all the way around to a 2-story drop over tile floors. Even if we put a gate the preschooler can climb on the ledge from the steps. Any ideas for how to make this safe?

Thanks for your help. Im painting the kitchen walls and want to remove the cabinet doors so that I can protect them, clean them up and put'em back.( Numbered them so I know where they go)

As the title indicates which pair of screws do I remove for easy reinstall.

I think 1 but will the wood be ok and able to hold the screw afterwards

2 feels like I'd be messing with aligning them afterwards

3 feels ...reusing holes in particle board type material feels risky.

This is in the crawl space of our mountain cabin. The top of the pipe is capped with tape and there’s an orange “marker” on it. Is this for plumbing or could this possibly be a radon mitigation system that’s been setup?

For context the house was built in the 90’s and uses a septic system

I have a question! Or three…

I have this table that’s been in my family for probably over 100 years. It’s has been painted for as long as anyone can remember. It looked terrible and I decided to refinish it myself after it was sitting in my garage for a couple years. Before doing anything, I did use a lead test and it looked negative.

The first picture is before I started using the chemical stripper. The next two are where it is now. I used a couple rounds of the stripper and then cleaned it off with mineral spirits.

Ok, the questions:

1. ⁠What else does this wood need other than sanding before I go about finishing it?
2. ⁠Any guesses as to what the wood is? It was likely made in northern Michigan.
3. ⁠What type of finish will be the best for something of this age? I do want it to be long lasting and functional.
4. ⁠Any suggestions are welcome. (Not a question, I know).

I’ll certainly update with how it all looks once it’s done!

Thank you!

We are currently moving our IKEA kitchen. Both during the disassembly and the attempted reassembly, countless feet broke in various places. I'm fed up with it and don't see why I should give IKEA more money for “broken by design” feet. The distance to the floor should be approx. 10 cm / 4 inches. The original IKEA Method Legs were 8€ per 2 which is expensive for such a bad design.

Do you have any cool low-budget ideas?
Are there any good ways to make a height adjustment/levelling mechanism yourself?

Thank you in advance :-)

My own research:
1. Problem seems to known and people recommend to "hang the cabinets to the wall and use the feet for support" which i find very weird.

1. Printing new feet myself https://www.printables.com/model/269225-stable-foot-for-ikea-metod-kitchen-base-cabinets nice idea but would take too much time with my ol' ender. (Maybe a good reason to buy a new printer :D)

2. I found this Video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2CP-gYi-PU explaining to use the IKEA Capita Feet but this will also be a cost of 15€ per 4 -> 75€-90€ for a max. length of 9cm and therefore a expensive compromise which doesnt make me happy.

Help, please!! On my cold plunge rain water tends to pool on the black surface areas. I built in drainage, but I noticed it does not totally drain and the wet surface has to wait for it to evaporate. It's just a matter of time until that surface starts to show signs of water damage.

I was hoping there is a transparent Marine grade/shellac product that can be used here, but I'm out of my league on this stuff. The black surface is pressure treated plywood, covered by two coats of black oil based stain, and ideally I'd like to but a transparent product over top of this vs redo it. :)

Thx Reddit!!!

I have lived in my current mobile home for the last 5 years or so. Just before I moved in a handyman "redid" a bunch of stuff but as time passed I realized how shoddy his work was. I'm now considering buying a different place and am wanting to do some basic repairs to rent this place out to a family friend. I'm trying to stay cheap as it is a mobile home and spending a bunch of money on it just doesn’t make financial sense in the long run. I have been pricing out things and figuring out what all I want to take on and replace or repair. The one thing I've been looking at today is the trim in here. It's very cheap. MDF with like a wood looking paper over it. I've seen it before plenty of times. I'm just wondering if it's something I should just replace all of it with pvc trim or cut wood to fit it or just replace only the pieces that need it. There are about 3 doorways that need at least 1 piece of new trim around it and maybe some other random spots. The rest of them don't have anything on the bottom as baseboards. I'm attaching some photos to show what the current trim looks like and some of the damaged areas to give you an idea of what I'm trying to replace. While taking the photos I realized that all of the res tof the trim is very thin but then the one around the door is actually angled it seems. Thinner closer to the door and thicker on the outside edge. The trim doesn't go around the floors at all. It is only around the windows and the doors. 2 closet doorways, 5 room doorways, 2 outside doorways, 6 large square windows, and 1 small kitchen window is where all the trim is. I have 3 I know for sure have scratches from the newest kitten on them and would need to be replaced or fixed somehow. So just looking for suggestions on the most cost effective way to repair or replace them. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I had a bathroom remodel done last year, and clearly the contractor that did it didn't do the job properly, as part of the shower floor tile is swelling/coming up where the glass door is:

https://imgur.com/fTlz0A6

I assume they didn't put down a proper membrane or moisture barrier underneath or maybe didn't seal the grout? The contractor has been unresponsive and while I'm looking at legal options to get some of my money back, I need to fix this regardless.

Does this look like I'll need to rip up all the existing shower floor tile and redo the whole thing? Or is there another option?

I’m finally ready to do something with my basement, but I keep going back and forth on what makes the most sense. A home theater sounds cool, but would I really use it? A gym feels practical, but I don’t want it turning into a clothes rack. A hangout/game room seems fun, but maybe it ends up empty most of the time. For those of you who’ve done it—what basement finishing idea actually worked for you long term? Any regrets or tips on what to avoid? Would love to hear what’s worth the investment before I start!

I'd like to know how to build a home made version of this, customized as described below:

My version will have some kind of subtle battery powered LED light inside to turn it into a night light with on off switch and removable rechargeable battery.....maybe in the base.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DCFNKCZ6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

My version will also have words seeming to float in the space, either by etching the glass or by printing the words on acetate and gluing onto the glass.

I tried flushing my water heater today and had an issue I hope the community can help with.

Turned off the gas. Then turned off the cold water line. Turned on a hot water facet in the house - only a little came out before it stopped.

Hooked up the house to the drain and opened it. I heard some water flow but not much. I then opened the check valve but nothing else happened. What am i missing- why is the water not draining?

If I turn the cold water back on the water will flow out the drain so I’m pretty sure it’s not blocked.

First time homebuyer attempt at removing popcorn. Does this look decent? Is joint compound and a sander all I will need to fix the imperfections?

Was installing a few curtains around the house and my stud finder detected a stud at this location so I went ahead and drilled the top bolt (which went through) but the bottom bolt did not go through at all and it came out fairly easy.

I then used a small magnet and realized there was metal around that area so I stopped working just in case. There is an outlet right below this window frame .

Any idea what the second (bottom) screw would not go in? Was the stud finder incorrect? To the left of the mounting bracket, the magnet does not stick.

I am looking to add a sail shade and am looking at how to install a post. I've seen most recommendations around digging a hole, pouring concrete and setting a pressure treated post to set. I saw this post base that would handle the post size https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-E-Z-Base-Black-Powder-Coated-Post-Base-for-4x4-Nominal-Lumber-FPBB44/100655350

I do have a concrete slab that I could drill this into, but am not sure if its strong enough? I'm in southern California, so Santa Ana winds, but no hurricanes in terms of winds that I receive. Is this insufficient or are there other solutions on concrete I could use?

I just moved into my new home and want to add some ambient lighting with home automation. I love the look of crown molding with indirect lighting and was planning to add it to my living room and master bedroom.

The problem is, both rooms have angled walls, and now I’m stuck on how to install the molding in a way that doesn’t look awkward or out of place. Has anyone dealt with this before? How would you approach it... or would you skip it altogether?

My friend made smash burgers on my grill about a week ago which left about 10 grease spots on my pavers. I tried Crud Cutter to remove them but that did not work. I also tried my blow torch on one of the spots as that worked for some oil stains in my driveway, but that turned it brown and I stopped. Any tips?

Thank You

Hey r/DIY. We just recently moved into an apartment and the front door slams loudly when we let it close on its own. I’d love to adjust the hinges so it doesn’t close as loudly. I’ve attached some pictures of the top hinge (bottom is the same, pics 1&2), and middle hinge (pic 3). The middle hinge does not have any pin that I can see, but does seem to have a hole in the bottom of it, and the top and bottom don’t have a spot for a hex wrench that I can spot. Anyone know if these are adjustable?

Thanks for your help.

Just looking for some general experience/advice on digging drainage trenches. The house I just bought has one of the gutters emptying into a low spot near the foundation, which probably isn't great. There's a drainage ditch out by the street and I was looking to reroute that gutter outlet underground to a pipe under the front yard. It's hard to tell the slope from the photos but I drew some blue lines, and I've got a prospective white line in white for the pipe. Any other options or am I overreacting? It gets very wet here in the winter in the PNW.

Our dog has an upcoming surgery to repair his knee and he won’t be able to do any stairs, jumping, etc for at least ten weeks while he heals. Lots of cheap options out there but I wanted to make sure he had something with:

1) a gentle enough incline 2) could withstand some weather 3) he couldn’t jump off of 4) wasn’t going to break if you looked at it sideways.

Not too upset with how it turned out.

I'm finishing my basement and the area with the furnace (forced air) will be used for storage.

However, I'm wondering how loud the furnace/fan will be through the walls.  Is it worth insulating the interior walls with Rockwool (Safe'n'Sound?)

My concern is that it might be pointless because of the cavities above the room with duct work so it might not help?

Here are some pictures:

Second picture is what I’d like to do, but not sure if it’d look weird with my dining room table. Third picture is a close up of the wood of the china cabinet. Is it even possible? The other ideas I’ve seen are painting it a solid color with a patterned wallpaper on the inside. Thoughts?

Hi all,

I want to attach my adjustable desk legs to a piece of wood using threaded inserts. I want to make sure that the holes for the threaded inserts are centered to the 7 holes that are in the desk legs where you can screw the legs to the table top. I'm thinking of using either m6 or m8 screws. I've had a look at ways to find the centre of a circle, but given the holes are relatively small, the center might not be very accurate. I have also seen hinge drill bits which does the job but are there cheaper ways which aren't too difficult?

Thank you!