Let me preface this by saying, I have always had gas powered supercab, short beds. That is just what I have always got(except for a 99 7.3(blue, supercab, shortbed, ZF6), the gas truck thing started after I bought a 6.0)

My steel body, it was getting old, starting to show its age(this was in late 2024). So I started shopping around for something new. I decided to stick with ford. I go to the dealer and make an order “I am sorry, we don’t offer short wheelbase supercabs anymore.” What am I to do in this situation? I pondered on it for weeks, eventually settling with the solution of just getting a long wheelbase, against my better judgment.

Come a few months later, 2026 model year comes out. Do y’all know what’s back? supercab shortbeds.

Don’t get me wrong, I love the truck, it’s almost exactly how I want it, but when I heard this news, it made me die a little inside.

We’re picking up this 63 F250 this week. Plan is to bring this thing back to life, this will be our first resto. If anyone has a tips, tricks, or experience with this or a similar truck I’m here for all the DIY tips you’ve got. I am fully aware this is a long and costly process.

Im back with an update to my previous post. I cleaned the battery terminals and since then, I am no longer able to start my truck. The dash comes on, but as soon as I try to crank the engine, it shuts off all power. My interior lights still work but the dash goes out. It can be repeated tho, so I guess it doesn’t blow a fuse. I first checked the fuses and battery terminal connections. Then I was able to jump it with a help of a jumper kit. Drove to autozone to get my battery tested and it was bad. Put a new battery in as well as new terminals. Nothing. Got the new battery tested as well to make sure, but it was good. I pulled the starter out and it tested as good. Then I tried a starter relay (solenoid) and still nothing. I then got another starter relay to make sure that one wasn’t just faulty. Still nothing. I am however able to bridge the two bolts on the solenoid and start the truck that way. What else could I try? Oh and I also pulled the ignition switch and tested it with voltmeter for all key positions, tested good. TLDR: I tried new battery, terminals, starter tested good, 2 new starter relays and tested ignition switch.

The outside paint is not original. Could Maguires 123 step paint restoration process bring this paint back to life? Could lightly scuffing the paint and clear coating do me any good? Asking cause properly repainting is expensive asf.

I have a 1996 Ford-F150 with 234,000 miles here in Austin. It’s reached the end of its life. I need to replace the straight inline 6 engine with a crate motor, replace the exhaust, and cut out the driver side panel and replace because rust is coming through at an affordable price.

I have an option to ship my vehicle out of state and do it cheaper, but I want to avoid that.

I have a quote from an auto body shop for $13,000. That’s seems extremely expensive, as a crate motor is $2400-2600.

Are there any shops outside of Austin that I can take it to and do it for cheaper? Looking to save 3-6k and not pay almost 10k in labor.

Let me know if you have any hidden gems or spots.

I’m also looking to sandblast it when I pull the engine out.

302

Anyone ever had anything similar happen? I put a shackle flip on my 83 f250 (1995 Dana60 swap) and at the end realized my crossmember is blocking my driveshaft from aligning correctly. Should I get a new crossmember? Weld something? Or is it because it’s too high in the front now?

Just cant believe i was able to get it 2019 f150 xlt!

How tired I am of paying for radiator maintenance at the service center, space prices! 😫😫😫 Finally found a solution to this problem, so I share with you, maybe someone will also help (saved me a lot of time and money) A small chip that replaced my trips to the service and solved this problem. I was helped, I hope you will also save money, not to give millions in the service, the guys are great, and checked by me personally .Here are the contacts 👇🏻. Euspro.com Euspro1@gmail.com

Where can I source the material and anyone know the factory color of this interior?

Someone help me here.

This is in an 80 f100 that has had the motor swapped for an efi out of an 88. The wiring was absolutely butchered when they did it, so trying to figure out what goes where is confusing. My problem is, I have continuous starter solenoid failures. I can start and stop the truck 50 times with a new solenoid, but if I drive it more than 10 miles, and shut the truck off, the solenoid will just click and never start back up. I’ve been through 4 solenoids.

Tried to take as many pics of the wiring to the solenoid as I can. I’m guessing something is either shorting or there’s a wire connected here that shouldn’t be? I know the red wire with a fuse able link is horrible and needs fixed, just trying to get it to run reliably before I actually redo any wiring.

The second and third picture show the wiring to a relay, which is what the black wire on the right of the solenoid powers. Be gentle, trying to learn lol

So about two weeks ago, my truck started idling and driving like crap. I replaced a bunch of stuff like the IAC valve, MAP sensor, plugs/wires, distributor cap and rotor, and fuel filter. After all that and still doing the same thing, I noticed the fuel pump sounded a little off. So I replaced the fuel pump and that fixed the issue, truck was driving really great. But after replacing it, I started to notice a subtle smell of gasoline coming from the tank area. And today, the fuel pump started making the exact same noise as it was before. It’s louder, unusuall hum, and the hum is followed by a weird sound when turning the key. And when I’m driving it’s doing the exact same thing it was doing before I replaced the pump, it idles and drives like crap with no power. So I dropped the tank and I noticed around the vent valve grommet it was a little wet from gas, (it seemed to be seated properly though). And it’s hard to tell because a little gas leaked when disconnecting the lines, but it seemed like around the groove where the fuel pump sits, it was wet from gasoline as well. With the fuel pump o ring in its place, and the metal ring installed all the way tight I could still slide the fuel pump side to side with a decent amount of pressure. But like i said, everything was installed properly so there’s no real way to make it any tighter. It’s an old tank, and it’s not in the best condition, so I’m thinking with rust and wear, maybe the grooves where the fuel pump sits in there is just worn down. But would any of this cause a fuel pump to go bad in just two weeks? Could a faulty vent valve, or vacuum leak from the pump not being sealed properly cause the pump to go bad that quickly? I need some advice because I don’t want to just throw another fuel pump at it and it go bad in two weeks.

I dont want to start on the wrong step and have to redo , or worst case did all cosmetic and truck ends up not working, so if you guys have a list of what to run through to get to that point of making as this other one but want to remain a flatbed

Looking for input from any Ford techs who’ve got a nice averaged out exposure to these over individual reviews and I’m mostly finding individual reviews online. Thanks for any help!

Bought a 99 f350 w a flatbed and the wires in my hand are from the truck. When I looked at the bed wiring it has 2 connectors that connect but does not have the big connector. I am new to fords and before putting bed am wondering what’s going on? Is the big plug for the trailer connection? Any info is greatly appreciated.

Massachusetts truck. 2016 f350 140k miles. Guy wants $21,000 for it. I know New England is bad whan it comes to salt and rusting vehicles. I also know Fords are know for the rockers to rust and all, which I saw starting to bubble on this truck. This just seem like too much rust going on. Am I being unreasonable with expecting less rust? Or do you think this still has many years left?

This is a 95f150 xlt with a 5.0. While replacing my coffee can, I noticed this piece was missing what looks like a vacuum line…

Truck seems to run and idle fine. Ac works beautifully, haven’t tried the heater yet. Is this perhaps a switch for the heater?

Last pic of what i eventually want but with my twist and flat bed stays

Back with another question. I searched the internet and still can’t figure it out. I just cleaned my battery terminal and replaced the negative bolt, because the old one snapped in half. The truck will not start. First it had all the dash lights on and seemed ok, but when I turned the key to start, it just shut off. Sounded like a blown fuse, but I didn’t find any blown fuses. My interior lights are on, the battery is reading a little over 12. But the dash is off and the starter wont engage. What else could I check? I looked at the ground wire and it seems ok. I checked the fuel switch, interior and engine bay fuses, battery and the wire itself. Any ideas?

1977 f250 highboy. truck currently has a 400ci v8 and has been repainted multiple times. Looking to see what the original color / original motor was.

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