Recently purchased this 2016 F350 XL with 120K miles with an impressive maintenance history. It has the 6.2l Gas, not the powerstroke, but it still tows this 16ft trailer good, even with the aftermarket wheels. I’m replacing the timbrins with an Amazon bought airbag/compressor kit I just picked up and replacing the rear leaf springs. Came with the EBY flatbed and was outfitted with several accessories for a power utility company, but I removed most of them. I think the only issue I’ll have is the transmission/TC eventually, as it’s showing some wear but nothing serious yet. It had a really heavy tool/utility cabinet instead of rear seats when I bought it, but I recently swapped that out with a local guy for matching seats.

1988 f-150 300 I6

Howdy yall. I got a (new, but old😂) 1995 f150 xlt and I always drive the speed limit. lol. Well while driving I thought dang, this seems faster than 55 mph. Well, I got a gps speed detecting app on my phone, I first tested the app in my Toyota and the app matched the speed my odometer said. Well when I tried it in the truck, the speed shows about 7 mph faster than the speedometer shows. This isn’t a huge deal, I just gotta remember to keep it 7 lower than what my speedometer actually shows. However I wondered has anyone ran into this with the older trucks? Not sure I can enough to fix it , is it even possible to fix though? TIA! Pic of truck also ❤️

Recently got my old girl done up and decided to put her to work 😍

88 f-150 with a 300 I6.

Hey everyone, so this is my grandpa's old 82 f350 flatbed deully that he was driving before he passed a few years ago. It has the 351 and a 4 speed manual transmission. It hasn't been running in awhile and i was wanting to get started working on it and getting it up and running again. I'm good mechanically and know the routine of getting these old cars up and running again. My problem is more electrical. In the past year someone broke into it and was trying to get it started or something, but completely destroyed the ignition when the key goes in. So I'm here to ask if theres a way to bypass the key switch and if so how can I do it? I want to get it started and running before I decided to get a new key switch and all. I checked if it was siezed and it isn't.

So any information would be amazing and would help alot. Also if you guys have other tips for getting a truck up and running after a few years sitting I'll definitely take them. She has a few trucks out here that I want to help her get running

1977 F-250 Custom. It’s got the 300 Inline 6, 4 speed manual, 2wd, and 104k miles.

Not sure if this is the right area or not but I am hoping to get some help. I have a 1994.5 F350 Powerstroke truck. Of course it’s a manual non 4x4 dually. Truck has 111k on it and now the speedometer just does wacky stuff like sitting at 0 until you get to 40 or so MPH before it just flips all over the place and now the odometer reads 111,645.9 and won’t move after I drove it for 5-6 miles yesterday. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

Hey folks! First timer here. My father owns a 2021 ranger sport, and he and my mother find the suspension rough as can be. They got a dog 6 months ago so they take the truck everywhere instead of moms comfy suv, much to her displeasure lol. Its fully highway, maybe the odd dirt road but no real off roading occurs. Its just rolling over 100k km on it, does it just need a refresh of the original suspension? Or do you recommend going for a full aftermarket setup? Any insight/direction would be greatly appreciated!

So after putting the trans fluid back in and put a new filter

I drove my truck when cold and literally it drives like it’s nothing wrong with the transmission shift on 4th gear no problem and the truck can carry itself when I let off the brakes at stops BUT… when warm and the temp around normal the problem comes and loss of 4th gear and doesn’t move when I let off the brakes “have to rev it to 2 to 3,000 rpm’s to make it move and jump in drive and the saga continues goes away literally when the truck has been off for like an hour or next day “would

-p/s no harsh joking statements and if I sounded so damn harsh last time sorry it’s just when things like this happens unexpectedly and from the sight I seen of the magnet of so much metal shavings I was freaking out cause I’m thinking the trans I spent 2 grand 300+ on rebuilding back in December has went out quickly and it’s only 9 months

https://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/d/coeur-alene-1997-ford-f250-73/7878887386.html

What do you guys think of this? Worth buying?

So my Fords at 99849 miles and the transmission is bad. It was covered under the Ford Gold Warranty Thank goodness. They’re saying they want to rebuild it but I want a new transmission. Any thoughts from anyone on this. I still owe like 24k and think they should replace the whole thing with new.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Hello, new to the community. Are 2018 and 2019 f150 crew cab Ecoboost 2.7 and/or 3.5 l a good investment? Considering mileage, of course. My goal is to pull an 8100 lb travel trailer. Thoughts?

‘01 F350, custom cedar flatbed made by me, bald ass rear tires and some war wounds, 7.3 still going strong after 880,000 miles, and so much abuse.

My temp gauge will go slightly above where it is now but that’s the highest it will go, slightly behind the “n” in the normal range. Is this just a bad sensor or gauge because it still shows that it has no temp in the morning and if it’s below 15 degrees it will take literally forever to even move at all let alone get to where it is in the pic

These are old pictures of my 78 Bronco. This was the very first time driving it. Took it into some mud, and than went to the pit and drove it down a hill that was obviously too steep to drive down 🤣 it the carb didn’t cut out it probably wouldn’t have flipped.

‘01 F350, custom cedar flatbed made by me, bald ass rear tires and some war wounds, 7.3 still going strong after 880,000 miles, and so much abuse.

Have anybody encounter this problem I can’t find anything online about it. Every time I start the truck and put it on Drive or reverse or even neutral it shows this message.

Been diagnosing a rich and misfire condition for a little while now and finally opened up the ECM to find this. Can the damaged capacitors be replaced or is the board toast?

Thanks

1997 F-350 XLT 4x4 7.3 PS and E4OD Built by Banks

I have no idea on this. I replaced the window motor and regulator last spring and it's been fine since a month or so ago. Window rolls down fine, tad clunky as I bought an 'El cheapo' window motor and regulator. Do I need a new motor/regulator? New rubber around the window? Something I'm not seeing?

It's a 92 F150 5.0, E4OD, extender cab with extender bed. Approximately 378K on mileage, if it's the original. Any help is appreciated, thanks for looking! I'm sorry if the video looks odd.