Semi auto Winchester wildcat 22lr. So the bolt will not properly seed the round into battery. Here's what I've checked so far: 1. Cleaned the piss out of everything. 2. Looked at barrel and looks fine. Bullet drops right in freely when I seed it by hand. 3. Slowly cocked and let the bolt go forward. Bolt head grabs the round and seeds it in the face well, but starts to get caught up right after the head of the round goes into battery 4. Almost looks like bolt bottom is getting caught up on the magazine. Rotary magazine. Tried different mags and different ammo. Still happens. 5. I can push the bolt manually with some force, fire the round, and it extracts the shell. 6. Then it won't cycle fully and gets caught up again. 7. When I run the bolt without a mag it runs smooth and strong. Don't think it's the spring but not sure. 8. Just spent four hours on it and am frustrated. 9. This started after I dropped the rifle on accident from about waist high onto concrete. Damn sling stud broke b 10. Barrel action is seeded fine in stock.

Please help if anyone has any idea. Thank you in advance.

I recently got a hold of a 1963 Winchester Model 70 with the standard iron sights. I’m planning on mounting a scope that pretty low on the receiver and was considering removing the iron sights, as they won’t really be needed.

The rear sight is just dovertailed, but the front sight sits in a ramp that is soldered to the barrel.

My question is this: was the model 70’s barrel blued BEFORE or AFTER the front sight was soldered on? Last thing I want is to have the sight removed and there’s a patch of bare, unblued metal where the front sight ramp used to be.

Any information on this would be much appreciated.

I have inherited this very cool mossberg 200KA but it has a broken plastic handle. I believe they were only produced for a couple years in the late 50s. I am missing one side of the broken piece and my local gunsmith told me I’m out of luck. I refuse to give up but I’m not sure where to go next to fix this. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

So I have a ROCK Ultra FS 10MM 8rd and I hate the full length guide rod tear down because of the stupid paper clip technique you have to use to get the guide rod and barrel out. So I was gonna put a GI guide rod in it for easier field stripping and cleaning but the only one I can find is a tiny commander one or a 6" version that I don't think will work because my gun has a 5" barrel.

So there's my issue can any gun nuts let me know where I can get a 5" version or drop a link because I've looked everywhere and the most I can find is the same open ended full length guide rod plug that I currently have in my gun already and from what I read that won't work properly with the GI style guide rod.

Please Help!!!

I bought a .357 ladysmith and the hammer broke off, was wondering if someone can help me find the exact hammer so I can order it and have it replaced. Thank you

Hello I am 21 and am probably about to drop out of my elite liberal arts college to start over at community college learning machining. I have always wanted to be a gunsmith and with the way my current education is going it would be best to start over. However one small hiccup in my plan; I am a trans woman. While I do live in a very liberal state most of the gun owners and gunsmiths I know here are uhhhh not so friendly to my kind. How hard will being trans have on acquiring an apprenticeship? Thank you in advance!

Edit for more info:

I am junior in college and unfortunately I am unable to switch into a different major due to the major requirements and the maximum amount of semesters I am allowed to take. Also for reasons I cannot get into I am unable to continue at my current institution. I also cannot afford to transfer to a different 4 year school as I am unable to afford any other school (only reason I can go to cc is because it's free).

Hi everyone, I have two handguns with an overtravel trigger screw: a CZ Shadow 2 SAO (with a modified trigger) and a Phoenix Drake Standard. I’d like to adjust the overtravel screw on both, but I can’t seem to figure out how to do it. From what I’ve read, they’re usually set with red Loctite, which means they need to be heated to loosen. I first tried using a butane lighter, but it didn’t help. Today I bought a small soldering iron that heats up to around 968°F (520°C) and applied it directly to the screw for 10 minutes, then 1 hour but it still wouldn’t budge. At this point, I’m not sure what else to try. Has anyone here run into the same issue with an overtravel screw?

I got this beaut for $150 a while back. The stock has seen better days and several repairs over the years. I have tried to fix the current cracks with gorilla wood glue, which held for exactly one (1) shot at the range. I've tried replacement with a new stock, but regular A5 stocks don't fit the gun as the curvature is different, and actual 720 stocks are near impossible to find. Any recommendations on how to proceed?

Recently purchased a Lee Enfield rifle saying it was chambered in 303 but upon receiving its actually a .410 conversion and I was really hoping to fire the original ammunition type. Is fixing it as simple as just rebarreling or it there a whole process?

I’m working on a project and I wanted to experiment with parkerizing a bit. Is there a way to create a two-tone effect using different blasting medias to create designs? More simply, will glass bead blasted sections contrast to alum oxide blasted sections?

Has anyone ever bought from Post rock gun parts? normally not a sceptic but they've got some parts i really need but they're about 20$ cheaper than anywhere else.

has anyone ever used post rock gun parts before? they've got some parts i need that are used but 20$ cheaper than most other places...

Im working on a CZ P01 dream i came up with, and im havin some trouble finding a slide. Im in the market for either a CZ SP01 tactical slide or a CZ 75BD slide. Due to the decocker only model p01 i have, i need either of those specifically. Haven't been able to find any luck online.

Any help is appreciated.

Emailed Holosun but they have not replied... Seems its a modified Shield RMS but shield pattern won't fit it so I'm lost outside of trying to dimension it myself. Trying to get this cut tonight because I'll have time. Anyone have a print, CAD file, anything they could send?

Thanks!!

PSL-54: chamber mouth has a deformation on it visible where the finish is removed, and will not chamber a round. Appears to only be at the mouth, will try to buff out with a fine polishing dremel bit, but how does this happen? I didn’t notice anything out of the ordinary the last time I shot it

Stuck case in a Browning 300 Win Mag. Brother decided the best way to get it out was a steal rod..... we'll the steel rod made it all the way to the casing and wedged it against the chamber walls so even when I tried to drill out the casing, it didnt move and the steel rod didnt budge at all so guess who has to call Browning and ask for a new barrel?

Hello! I took apart my Belgian Auto 5 to give the receiver a deep clean and when I pulled out the bolt a small shard of metal fell out. I got the firing pin out and removed the locking block and it was pretty clear where the chip came off. For some reason though, the whole U shaped piece was missing and looked like it had broken off. Has anyone seen this before? Am I fucked and pretty much need a new locking block?

Is there a market for good basic 22LR suppressor at $299? Aircraft aluminum, removable baffles OR carbon monocore and a silicon sleeve? Handles rimfire magnums too..

Is it possible for a lever action rifle that is fed bye a magazine and if so would or wouldn't it be affective. Also if one already exists please let me know.

Hey I have a Bushing-less bull barrel 1911 from RIA in 10mm and I have to use a paperclip to strip and clean the gun but i really wish i could just remove the slide toolless and just pull the guide rod and spring out for cleaning like I've seen others do in videos but I don't know what I need to buy, I don't want to have to be messing with little bent paperclips I just want an easier time taking it out to shoot and then breaking it down with a few pushes to then clean out and put back together.

I saw Dawson Precision has a tool-less full length guide rod (built in kickstand for stopping recoil spring) but I don't even really like that because I would at some point need to take the guide rod out of the compacted state to clean everything anyways.

I am not a gunsmith by any means but I do love building and working on my AR's. Is there any options where I can do a custom built bolt action without taking it to a machines or professional gunsmith? I've heard a lot of different things about bolt action head spaces but I've also heard somthing about rifles with a barrel nut but can find no good information on them.

Noticed this chip on the barrel of my shotgun (see picture). Are there any concerns of continuing to use the gun?

Hey all, ive got a century arms CA-3. It’s basically a Portuguese G-3 parts kit with a brand new trunnion, receiver, barrel, and a couple other bits and bobs. I went and shot it for the first time last night and it’s super fun, but in my first magazine of 20, I had probably 4 or 5 jams where the shell did not properly leave the gun. It pulls it out of the chamber no problem, in fact maybe too well, because half of them, the spent shell got stuck completely backwards in the gun. The bolt is late 60’s dated. I was using Winchester .308 147 grain target/practice ammo. Im going to try again with some PMC bronze later, but I’m wondering if the extractor is just stupid stiff and causing the spent brass to do cartwheels, or what.