r/HaircareScience • u/theverylostunicorn • 12d ago

Discussion Questions about protein hair sprays

What is the mechanism by which protein hair sprays interact with the hair shaft?

Do they lead to actual repair of keratin structures, or mainly form a temporary film on the cuticle?

At what frequency of use does protein buildup or brittleness typically occur?

Are certain hydrolyzed proteins (e.g., keratin, silk, wheat) more effective at binding to coily or tightly textured hair?

Is there evidence that protein sprays measurably reduce breakage between wash cycles?

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u/playbyk 12d ago

These are fantastic questions and I hope you get a lot of good replies!

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u/veglove Quality Contributor 11d ago

Can you give an example of a product that's in this category that you're asking about?  I've never heard of this category and I'm wondering if it's a hairspray (hold product) that has some protein, or a protein treatment in spray form, or something else. 

It's important to know that often products will highlight protein ingredients more for marketing than because the protein makes a significant difference in the performance of the product. 

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u/lovelylisanerd 11d ago

IGK has one, for example. It strays into dry hair.

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u/sudosussudio 10d ago

It depends on the protein. Most haircare proteins are hydrolyzed and there are sooooo many types of proteins and they are all extremely different. Many are also further chemically modified to stick better on hair- those are the ones most likely implicated in buildup (Principles of polymer science and technology in cosmetics and personal care).

If you look at specific products sometimes they'll tell you what specific (not just inci) protein they are using. Like Curlsmith says they use ProCutiGen® Bond in their protein bonding product, which you can look up manufacturer data for. If you click on "efficiency assays" you can find their tensile strength test data among other things. Keep in mind these are not peer reviewed and their purpose is usually to sell the ingredient to manufacturers. Some individual hair products also have such testing but I can't think of any off the top of my head.

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u/srs890 11d ago

personal opinion: protein sprays don’t actually “repair” keratin, they mostly form a film that helps strengthen the cuticle and reduce breakage short term, hydrolyzed proteins like silk or wheat bind better, especially on textured or porous hair. overuse could cause stiffness or brittleness, so it’s about balance, once or twice a week is usually okay, there’s some evidence they help with less breakage between washes, but it’s more supportive than a permanent fix.