I was coming back from a date with the wife on the interstate. Everything was perfect. Her, the top off (off the jeep), the rumbling, the breeze, and then the car starts pulling to the right like crazy!! What are my options?

I believe they now recommend 5W-30. I’m not sure what came in my brand new 2025 Wrangler. I only have 300 miles on it. Should I just pull the trigger and take it and get an oil change done and switch it to 5W-30 right now?

Reason I ask is because I have a multi thousand mile trip coming up around the southwest For a few weeks and if the zero weight oil is causing problems with the 3.6 penstar then seems like this might help prevent any problems down the road.

This popped up on my FB Maketpace feed. Super cool. I've only seen a couple in person and definitely not in this condition.

I would appreciate any advice on this situation.

Some backstory: A friend had dropped a BIC lighter in my passenger vents while preparing to smoke during winter. Fast forward to summer, my passenger-side heat doesn't get nearly as hot anymore. A side issue was the rear USB ports not working. To finish it off, there is an oscillating squeak when coasting.

I brought my JLU 22 to the dealership (under Mopar MaxCare) for an inspection of these issues & an oil change. Through diagnostics, they found a "small" hole that "appeared" to be from foreign debris between the heater core and the evaporator, IIRC. The hole was found using a boroscope. Then I was charged fees for a USB fuse diagnostic (covered under warranty), which the service advisor told me wouldn't be covered since it had "blown", and a fee for diagnosing the HVAC issue and the squeak. They attributed the squeak to glazed rear rotors, which caused a squeak when releasing the brake (this was not the correct issue). This advisor said to me that none of the problems would be covered under the extended warranty. [$500 for resurface rotors, $3.1K for HVAC, $~10 for fuse]

When I came to pick up the vehicle, my service advisor was unavailable, so I spoke to another service advisor and questioned why these issues wouldn't be covered under warranty. The lighter did not cause any problems and would likely not blow up or break the blend doors. I had already replaced that fuse once under the manufacturer's warranty with no problem. The second service advisor informed me that all the aforementioned issues should actually be covered, and he double-checked this with a lookup. This service advisor was much less pushy and listened to what I had to say. Following that, instead of paying the $900 in diagnosis fees, I was charged the $100 deductible instead. I was sent off expecting a phone call the next day & a request for a ride-along.

The next morning, I received a call from the 1st service advisor. It went something like this: "After speaking to my manager, we are going to help you out since neither us, nor warranty, nor you know exactly what caused the issue, we will get you a loaner, and of course, we want to help you out".

So, I dropped off my car and got in a loaner when scheduled. However, the whole idea of a ride-along was blown off, but I did mention that I would like it to be looked at again. This entire process takes about a week or two of working on the vehicle, and I got a phone call yesterday along the lines of "we found foreign debris in the HVAC housing, warranty is not going to cover it". The bill came out to roughly $ 3,900 post-tax, but was reduced to $ 3,200 after negotiation.

So, they found the lighters and now probably have grounds to deny the warranty claim. However, I'm unsure whether that would cause the issue. I will attach some pictures here.

Here is the crux of the issue: I understand it's a catch-22, in that they wouldn't be able to fully diagnose/realize the issue without disassembling (a borescope is limited). However, I wouldn't have authorized a repair or dropped my vehicle off if I had been aware that there was a chance the claim could be denied after dropping it off. I understand that this was likely my fault, as the lighter exploded inside the HVAC. I feel caught in the middle because I was told two different things (first $3k, then warranty). I never signed paperwork authorizing a customer-pay repair because I thought it was covered. But I don't want to dodge responsibility. However, I would have definitely taken it to a smaller repair shop if the customer's pay was the case.

And to finish it off: The issue with the squeak has been consistently ignored or pushed to the side, so much so, that I pushed in emails and in texts on the status and got finally was responded to after my vehicle was done and ready for pickup with "The technician hasn't heard anything" after providing two recorded audio clips and a video clip of the behavior.

TLDR

• 2022 Wrangler JLU under Mopar MaxCare.
• A friend dropped a Bic lighter in my vent last winter → this summer heat stopped working right. Also had rear USB ports that were dead, and a squeak when coasting.
• The dealer borescoped the HVAC system, found a hole, and the first advisor quoted $3,100 for the HVAC, $500 for brake resurfacing, and $10 for a fuse — none of which were covered under warranty.
• The second advisor said they should all be covered. I left, paying only my $100 deductible, and was told it’d be handled under warranty with a loaner.
• After teardown, they found lighter debris in HVAC and flipped back to: not warranty, $3,900 → reduced to $3,200 after negotiation.
• I never would’ve authorized a teardown if I had known the claim might still be denied, and I never signed off on a $ 3,000+ customer-pay repair.
• Squeak issue (one of the main things I came in for) has been ignored despite me sending videos.
• I know the lighter probably caused the damage, but I feel stuck — caught between dealer miscommunication, warranty confusion, and a $3,200 bill I wasn’t prepared for.

So now I’m stuck: should I pay the approximately $3,200 and take it as a lesson learned, or push harder for more goodwill, given the mixed communication and lack of a signed customer-pay authorization? It would be a decent financial hit.

Has anyone dealt with a situation like this — accidental damage plus warranty confusion — and achieved success in obtaining more coverage or a larger discount?

2010 grand cherokee driver side back door. Can I fix this on my own or is this body shop caliber? Looking for insight.

Just installed a set of Vland headlights on my Grand Cherokee WK2 and wanted to share how they perform at night. Install was plug & play with no fitment issues, and I disabled the startup animation so they look more OEM. Here’s a quick video of the light output.

The specific ones I bought: Grand Cherokee WK2 Vland Headlights

My jeep used to leak badly, I've mostly fixed it. Sometimes there are still small places where water gets in. Drives me crazy, but I've pretty much figured it's not totally solveable and I'm resolved to keep it because it's been a great car otherwise plus I've had it for 10+ years. At one point there was some mold, but i got rid of it.

I've gotten it detailed before / keep it pretty clean, but it still has a pretty dang musty smell. Doesn't really bother me much at this point...

But sometimes I do wonder, is this shit really bad for me or my health? Am I inhaling mold spores? Do any of you worry about this / have any solves?

I have a 2020 Jeep Wrangler, JL and my battery died. I had it jumped last night and drove over to O’Reilly‘s to have them test it. They said the battery was dead completely shot. When my battery first died, I did not see the auxiliary light with the warning symbol on the dashboard however, once it was jumped, it appeared in bright yellow.

I just ordered the auto stop eliminator for my vehicle and it will show up tomorrow. My question is I’m under the impression that I don’t have to replace the auxiliary battery because this bypass is it completely. I’m having O’Reilly check that now, if they can, and then I’ll have to make a decision. According to Information, I looked up online. My auxiliary Battery is right below the main battery.

Just wondering if any of you out there have any input on my situation. I’ve read in various places that I can just ignore the auxiliary battery completely and never worry about it again which is what my hope is. Just wanted to verify.

My grandpa's brother. Not sure date. What's up with this tires though. Just bald af?

Prior to a month ago, I had never ridden in, let alone driven, a Jeep Wrangler before. My daughter got into a car accident(she’s fine, thank God) and during the repairs I decided to rent a Jeep. Had never even been inside of one. While I was at the rental car place, I took off the tops, and drove home that way. I loved it. As soon as I got home, I took off the front two doors. And by noon the next day, the back two doors were off. It was exhilarating. It was one of the most fun driving experiences I’ve ever had, wind through the hair and all that. Other drivers started waving at me, went from their jeeps so I’d wave back, I had just made new friends! Tomorrow I return my Jeep - but I already have paperwork in at the dealership.

I’d love to ask some questions: I’ve heard there is a huge Jeep community- with all kind of quirky things they do. (Ducks?) Where can I learn more about that?

Easy, quick and cheap modifications and embellishments?

I’m thinking about getting a 4xe - anything to be concerned about there? Heck, any recommendations on models, options and features on any wrangler?

What else should I know?

Thank you!!!

Looking to get a nice xj or tj wrangler. I’ve got a nostalgia factor for both, growing up in the 90s my parents had both. However the xj always stuck with me more. I’ve been more drawn to a Cherokee but seems impossible to find a non rotted out cut up POS in the northeast. Whatever I pick is gonna be garaged in winter and just used as fun vehicle in the summer. I do think having a wrangler would be really fun for my 2 year old to ride around in the summer top down and think that would give him some core memories. I’d only be getting a 4.0 regardless. What are your opinions?

The first picture is the clutch fork close and center to the clutch slave cylinder, when I tried to align the slave cylinder with it, I guess I failed and misaligned it and it made the Jeep stall when I tried to put in in first gear, now (second picture) its stuck. It’s still in the center, but just further back and I can’t move it closer to housing unit like I did last time, stalling most likely locked it in place. Is it still able to install with the clutch slave cylinder and clutch fork even though it’s stuck? Or do I have to find a way to loosen the clutch fork back close the housing unit again?

What do you think of a jeep patriot as a reliable car?

Seen in Cozumel yesterday. Thought it was pretty cool

help! i forgot to reset my oil life last oil change so it keeps telling me i need an oil change now every time on startup. i have done the pedal method like 5 times now. i've done it before so i know how to do it. no clue what to do next!!

drive jeep wrangler jk 2014

Just bought a 2025 Wrangler and got it home after about a 3 hour drive. I crawled back under it just to have another look and noticed a loose bolt. Unfortunately, all my tools are packed up and wondering if this is just a skid plate bolt. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

The trail was not too hard but this is a nice photo.