Ultimatum Deadline (cerakoted Noveske Bazooka Green) w/ IBI 24” barrel. McMillan A-6 Marsh S&B PMII 5-25x56mm TwoVets Tripod in ColeTac Tripod sleeves (wish they made a 20” length version…) Area419 bits and pieces all over.

Such a great group and thanks for the decals 🤘🏼

Second time shooting my 6.5 Sig Cross.

Was able to get a pretty good 10 round group at 100 yards using PSA Sabre Black Blade 140 grain ammo.

Hit some 8 inch steel gongs and small steel silhouettes at 400 yards.

Just out practicing my F-TR @900m in prep for a match in a few weeks.

Still very tempted to upgrade to a Borden Action from this model 70.

Just got this NM in and I'm really digging the m21 crazy horse look to it

I am looking to start my journey into PRS shooting next year. I have a local range what hosts a regional PRS match once and month and there are some other regional matches I may travel to. Before I go all in on a rifle, I was going to run either my 18” 308 Ruger American bolt gun in a chassis or my 16” 6.5 CM semi auto. Is it worth it to do this and get my feet wet or should I look at an entry level PRS rifle? Also, I know I’m not going to really be competitive.

Thanks for all the input and help! Just waiting on ammo to show up now

Tikka T3X stainless Factory 7 PRC 22” barrel AG Composites Alpine Hunter UM rings Maven RS 1.2 Meraki Machine M1 muzzle brake

I love my 110 in 30.06. It's action and trigger feel great. It also shoots and groups cheap ammo more than well enough for the 100-200yd shots I take with it. However, I start to lose confidence in it past 300 yds. This could probably be fixed by just handloading or using better ammo, but why do that when I can just get a new rifle?

I have a range that's near me that can accommodate up to 1 mile shots and would like to take advantage of that with a longer shooting rifle. I'm wanting a .300 win mag as a dual purpose hunting/range gun (I know, it's hard to do both). My question, for stretching out those distances, would buying a bare bones 110 and upgrading the stock and barrel be a good way to go? Would that net me better gains than say a factory B14 HMR or something similar?

Hi - I just did a 3hr roundtrip to the range only for the cheek riser to pop out before I got to shooting. It's a Hit Pro M3 6.5CM. The cheek riser won't go back fully into the tracks anymore and hence can't be used. I do see a spring in there but not sure what I need to do to fix this. Has anyone experienced this before? Is there a way to disassemble enough to fix it? If not for this specific rifle, how do these chassis cheek risers usually work? Thanks!

Turning the Applied Ballistics “TOP Gun” Formula into Mean Radius (and back):

TL;DR In AB Quantum’s WEZ, Precision is the average 5-shot Extreme Spread (ES) at 100 yd. If you prefer to use Mean Radius (MR), the relationship I found from ~1M simulated 5-shot groups is:

Precision (MOA) = Mean Radius (in.) / 0.428 or Mean Radius (in.) = "TOP" x 0.428

Why did I do this:

While looking at the WEZ feature in the AB Quantum app, I asked Applied Ballistics what exactly “Precision” input is. Bryan Litz confirmed to me in an email: it isn’t an SD, as the other inputs are- it’s the average 5-shot ES. That immediately brought to mind the TOP Gun formula, whose output is also “Precision = average 5-shot ES at 100 yd (MOA).”

I don’t use Extreme Spread of 5-shot groups to describe the cone of fire of my rifle, so it was not immediately apparent how I could calculate this to use it for WEZ in AB Quantum using mean radius. At first I estimated using shots from my own rifle that the Mean Radius / ~0.4 works ok, but I wanted to firm that up.

I simulated almost a million 5-shot groups of varying mean radii and found the average 5-shot group in MOA was equal to the mean radius in inches divided by 0.428. And then applied that same coefficient to the TOP Gun Formula to modify the TOP formula to output the true mean radius instead of the average 5-shot group. I think this makes the TOP formula more universal and not subject to as much sample noise as 5-shot groups since it is estimating the statistically valid "true" mean radius that you would find at very large sample sizes.

A note on the simulation:

I included a snip from the output of my simulation (LEFT side of spreadsheet image) side-by-side with the Applied Ballistics TOP Gun formula (RIGHT), to illustrate the accuracy of the coefficients. On the left in Blue, you can see the average 5-shot extreme spread in MOA from the 50,000 group simulation where the only input is the true mean radius in green. The average sample mean radius (red) from the 5-shot groups can also be observed as smaller than the true mean radius due to the small samples in the 5-shot groups skewing toward smaller values (average sample MR and true MR align at >30 shot groups). In orange, the ratio of True Mean Radius to Average 5-Shot extreme spread can be seen as ~0.428. On the right is the TOP Gun calculation, the TOP Score (blue) matches the simulation’s average 5-shot ES (blue) and the 0.428 coefficient (orange) reproduces the true mean radius (green). Pretty neat and so simple!

A note on “True” Mean Radius:

The output mean radius is estimating the true mean radius of the rifle system that a load would settle into after large samples. It follows the same caveats as the TOP Gun formula from Applied Ballistics, since all I did was add a coefficient: It is an estimate of baseline precision of a rifle system. It is a tool, not a rule. Additionally, at lower samples, the mean radii (just like extreme spread of small sample size groups) is artificially skewed smaller, in fact, the average Mean Radius of 5-shot groups is 89.5% the true mean radius (MR at larger sample sizes). If you are using your MR to get the Precision input for WEZ, make sure that your MR is from a statistically valid sample size of at least 20-30 or you'll be underestimating you MR.

What this is (and isn’t):

Lastly, I am not trying to make any claim on the AB TOP formula, I just found a neat coefficient that makes it output the MR and at the same time, found the same relationship applies to 5-shot group average ES and the Precision Input in AB Quantum's WEZ feature. This is an estimator of baseline precision for a rifle system same as TOP Gun, just expressed in Mean Radius. It reduces dependence on noisy 5-shot ES (when you are testing it yourself) and stays compatible with AB’s WEZ input. Like all such tools, it’s a tool, not a rule. Use large samples whenever you can.

I had a lot of fun finding this out and wanted to share. I hope it helps you with your long range goals.

Hey guys I wanted to dive into matches this year like PRS or DMR matches and I wanted to ask about IF a tripod setup is needed.

I attended my first match and I felt super all over the place, lost my data card holder, barely had service, and couldn’t determine wind super well.

My idea is to have a simple work station maybe with

• LRF Binos: To I can verify distances from the match book
• Spotting scope: better read wind before I go up
• Data station: kinda like this https://www.etsy.com/listing/4334238810/dock-lite-compact-modular-tripod where I can better organize myself and data

Help me out here on what you guys do, maybe it was first match jitters.

Bipod. I would like a sturdy bipod with enough length to shoot from a sitting position. I understand prone is the way to go, but I would like the ability to be practice and become proficient in multiple positions.

400 yards, as of now. I will be positioning ipsc steel targets at 100, 200, and 400 until a obtain more or shoot further.

Preferably 300 or less. I found this tier one bipod on fbmp, seller asking $250. I understand this is a prone bipod, but it seems solid. There's not many reviews or discussions on this product. Any advice is welcome.

Currently, I've only used shooting sticks. I have no real experience shooting prone, only standing and sitting.

Any advice is welcome. I've done ALOT of reading in the group, but I can't justify a $500+ bipod at my current skill level. Again, thank y'all. 🤠

Been wanting to jump off the cliff that is long range for a while now, finally about to pull the trigger and take the jump. Got a question for anyone that can answer. The rifle I’m looking at has a 20MOA built in pic rail, and the optic mount I have also has 20MOA built into it, will that be to much added elevation for the optic I’m getting, it’s the ATACR 7-35 with the Mil-XT reticle. Thanks!

I was testing the best factory ammo I could find after going through different brands/weights aka Sako TRGs 140grs (6.5 creed). This is before diving into the hand reloading process but know I'm afraid I can't do better than that in term of consistency and accuracy...

Rifle : Tikka T3X ace target, Vortex strike eagle 5-25x56 with Atlas BT bipod

For vets that may not know like me who just found out today, you can get som very generous veteran discounts on optics.

My budget is $2-2.5k retail for an optic on my 18” BCM AR, but I’m a total noob (I plan on taking classes). What do you all recommend?

My initial (arbitrary) goal is to shoot well out to 600 Yards. Essentially an SPR type setup. I was looking into the Nightforce 2.5-20x but I’m not sure.

I don't know if I am the problem missing something obvious or my scope is messed up (or something else). Looking to see what the problem may be.

Took my rifle out for the first time today and had to hold about a foot below the target stand to even just hit paper at 50yds. The elevation turret does not seem to have much movement (-.5 mils from the 0 stop to +3.5 mils).

It's a Vortex Viper 5-25, Vortex Pro 34mm medium rings, Nightforce 20 MOA rail.

I know reddit hates Christensen Arms, buttttt... CA Mesa Long Range in 6.5cm. Vortex Razor HD LHT. EC tunner brake. MDT bipod.

Just showing off cuz she looks good.

I appreciate y'all's friendliness here and I hope to post again soon. Everyone is more than welcome to add to or shit on in the comments. The seller's addition of the Luth AR stock and DD grip is interesting. Pretty sure it's still the stock trigger. Definitely don't feel too bad scoring this for $1200.

Glass. The seller gave me a Nikon Monarch 5 25x to go along with it. Yes, I understand this is a hunting scope, but it will do for now. I'll have to dig through my parts bin for some 1" scope rings.

Ammo. I'm sure there's tons of info out there on what runs through these best, but if any of you have advice... Feel free to share. I've always shot Hornady regardless of rifle, but $. I'll have to find cheaper rounds to send down range <400 yards repeatedly before stepping up the game or loading.

Ill search around for info on bipods here, then take that information to google. I am a poor and will definitely be looking for second hand. Any advice is also appreciated.

I plan to keep the Q Cherrybomb on it. As said previously, one of the main points of this rifle was to have a compact suppressed package. There is a local company that produces a compatible can for 800 otd w/ stamp. Figure I'll look at that as funds become available.

I am one of the unfortunate sons, and I've recently learned that some older/European scopes used to be made with a counterclockwise magnification dial (turn left to increase the magnification instead of right). My question is, are there any companies that still do this? My google-fu is either falling behind, or this practice went the way of the dodo. Thanks!

Hey!

Just wanted to share (show off?) my new setup with you guys.

Shooting for about five years now, super casual .22 and 9mm. (CZ 457 Syn, Ruger Mark IV and CZ Shadow 2)

Really want to start doing competitions (50, 100m, 300m) and get better - so I thought it’s about time to upgrade to something nicer.

Rules and regulations are pretty strict here in Germany - so I can’t modify as heavy as some of you US guys can (jealous!).

Anschütz APR 1761 Long Range Element Titan 5-25x56 Voere-X CFK Bipod

Hope y’all like it.

Max

Hey all,

I’m new around here, and new(ish) to long range. I don’t get to stretch beyond 300 yards very often, but hoping to start doing more soon. Figured I’d get some opinions from the more experienced folks in the group on my builds I’ve put together for doing some plinking and hunting.

Rifles in pictures are:

1. Remington 700 chambered in 270 KRG Whiskey FDE chassis with folding stock option Vortex Venom 5-25x56 FFP MRAD optic Vortex Precision rings 20 moa picatinny base Vortex tube mounted level Magpul bipod - FDE

2. Remington 700 SPS chambered in 308 KRG Bravo stock style chassis Vortex Venom 3-15x44 FFP MRAD optic Vortex Precision rings 20 moa picatinny base Cheap bipod (for now)

3. Remington 700 PCR chambered in 6.5 CM Factory PCR chassis w/ MDT grip Vortex Venom 5-25x56 FFP MRAD optic Vortex Precision rings 20 moa PCR chassis specific base Vortex tube mounted level Tanker style muzzle brake Magpul bipod - black

I know the picture of the PCR is before I added the optic and bipod, but I’m lazy about getting pictures sometimes. So far these have all been really solid at the ranges close to me. We do have a 1,000 yard range about an hour from me that does open up to a mile once a month, so I’m looking to spend some time up there to prep for joining the mile club.

I’m looking forward to being a part of the group here. I do reload for all calibers I shoot, so that’ll help to a degree so long as I do my part. Especially with the 270. That one is a bit of a special project, because I look forward to taking advantage of some higher BC projectiles coming out for the new Sig 277 Fury round.

Well, with all that said, what do you guys think? I know they’re not high budget builds, but they’re great shooting rifles that I look forward to growing with.

TLDR: Look, pretty rifles the newb is showing off.

My friend made this 30moa scope rail for my tikka M65 and it was shiny so I did try my hands at rust bluing. Got nice mstte black.

Here is steps I followed:

1. (Optional) Sandblasting

2. Make rust bluing solution( I used 70 % of hydrogen peroxide (13%), 30 % vinegar and salt as much as you can dilute ro solution)

3. Heaten the part up. So hot that you can barely hold it.

4. Brush rust bluing solution. I used tootbrush, but you can use regular painting brush. Make sure to get solution everywhere.

5. Heat the part so that the solution will dry and rust will develop.

6. Heat water to boiling and place part to there. Wait for the rust to turn black.

6.Take it out from water and brush loose blackened rust off with brass brush.

1. Repeat steps 3-6 for desired blackness.

2. Place the part to oil for 24h. Dirtier is better!

Couple notes: use heatgun or if not available torch. Be careful to not overheat part. Avois brushing bluing solutio. Multiple times as it will scrape the rust off.

Do wear appropriate protection!