Just got my CMP Field Grade RC in the mail. Maybe it’s just a coincidence, but most of these RC’s I’m seeing are sub 1 mil serial number and are former Legion / VFW. The crown looks a little sad, so I might recrown it.

I found this m1 Garand in a old barn my grandfathers friend owns. It was absolutely filthy and covered in some kind of black tar. He sold it to me for $700 and after a few days of cleaning it looks absolutely fantastic. All parts are in working order and the serial number dates from march of 1943

As the title says, the gun ejects the round and chambers a new one, but the trigger is dead. I'm seeing a small detent/prick on the primer of the next round it chambers. I'm not sure if it's not re-cocking and the firing pin is just flying forward with the bolt, or if it is re-cocking and the firing pin is light striking.

I disassembled and re assembled the bolt, and cleaned out the gun. I have not tried the brake cleaner trick on the gas piston yet. I wanted to know if anyone else had seen something similar.

The m1 got its over the bore scope mount, the m1 garand casm mount. Need to get a different riser for it now that the scope isn’t offset. Planning on getting something ment for an M1a, should fit fine. Next is the stock. Don’t know what I want to get yet. Dupage used to have a green one I liked but not anymore it looks like.

Hello all, just received my new built m1. It had been test fired by the smith who said everything worked when he tested. He’s been building Garands for decades and has probably done thousands.

First round through the rifle cycled. Second got stuck. After using a nylon coated cleaning rod to tap out the round (didn’t take much), it continued to not cycle.

I tried really bracing against the rifle (I weigh 190lb, so I’m not limping the rifle when I normally shoot), and that allowed the rifle to cycle 3 times before a stoppage.

The extractor is ripping the rim off, so not an issue there I dont think.

Anyone have this issue before? The chamber is freshly reamed, so not sure how it could be Fowler enough to cause this.

When i mount the rifle, im looking directly into the back of the receiver. To use the iron sights I need to do a chin weld.

Any helpful tips or suggestions? I’ve heard of the spot weld where I put my face on my hand, but I can’t creep far enough in the stock to do this

Wanted to share my 54’ H&R M1 service grade garrand from CMP several years ago. Also my M1 Inland Carbine from 1944. Was told the wings on the carbine were cut off to help see during low light hours during combat during the war.

Picked up a pretty nice IHC reclaimed field grade at the Talladega store today and it's got the postage stamp layout but the serial number is a pretty good bit later than the documented postage stamp range. What exactly do I have here? I think I got a pretty good deal too, it has IHC trigger group, bolt, oprod, rear sights, and gas cylinder screw and a 1945 Springfield barrel so it's pretty close to complete and very clean for a field grade.

Got a guy selling his for 700 USD, he’s got 3 mags to go with it, it’s a auto.(not full auto, I mean the maker) Any advice? No pics to go with it, but I saw it myself and examined it, it looks nearly brand new

After what feels like 6-8 months checking M1A listings daily, I found a rifle that is my perfect spec in excellent condition.

Springfield M1A from 1988

• “5 Line” Receiver

• Made in the 40k-60k SN range.

• Almost all USGI parts. H&R barrel, op rod, trigger housing, and stock. TRW bolt and hammer. DRC NM marked rear sign.

This is about the closest you can get to the real thing in my opinion. Next on my list is to install a fake selector.

This post is a response to someone asking about the front wings missing. People cut them off during the war for better visibility during the early or late hours of the day. It was more like their hunting rifles back home.

The title sums it up more or less. How many of you guys track down M1 Garands that have sequential serial numbers? Turns out there is one for sale that is 50 numbers away from the one I own! But....the price is steep. $2400.

Hey there y'all was shooting my m1a today an got to move out to 180 yards. The rifle was shooting a whole foot low.

For context: shooting Winchester copper impact 150 gr 308. From 2 different batches. At 100 yards it was hitting dead on but at 180 suddenly it's 12 inches low. The box says it should only drop 2-3" at that distance.

Any ideas? Does the gas system just use up that much?

Still waiting for the cmp forum moderator to approve my account, so I currently can’t see the chatter on there yet.

I’m planning on going to the north store this weekend with my buddy. Wanting to get my first M1 garand. Been in love with the rifle since I was little. I just got out of the marines so I meet all the requirements.

Do you think their stock/inventory will be good? I mean they been closed for a while so I only assume they had time to get more. Never dealt with cmp before so I’m not sure how they operate with that.

Not very up on where to check for the weld but does anything stand out ? Thinking I might have to break it down and check under the wood line for any marks

1944 IBM. Bayonet doesn’t look period correct and stock is a lot lighter in color than most I’ve seen. Missing oiler as well.

Just bought my first M1 at a gun show. All parts are Springfield Armory. It has a national match barrel and the bore looks to be in pretty nice condition. Correct cartouche on the stock for the year too (department of defense acceptance stamp). Paid $1,400 for it which I felt was a little steep but I’ve been hearing the CMP has been running very low and I don’t feel like paying $1,900 for a reproduction receiver build.

Just saw one on the wall at my local gun shop, also Springfield stamped on everything, with a 50,xxx serial number, mine is 5.8 million. They’re asking $1,700. Contemplating seeing if they’d want to take mine with some cash on top, I wouldn’t mind paying a few hundred more for that low of a serial number as my grandfather fought in WW2 and it would be more special to me. Plus I didn’t exactly want one dated post WW2. It also has a stock in much nicer condition than mine with some dents and dings which I wanted. My furniture is so grimy, almost black. The pictures look lighter. Previous owner sanded it and refinished it taking away all that character. I feel like $1,700 is a pretty good price for the condition and a 50k serial number. Am I crazy? Should I just keep mine and enjoy it? Sorry for writing a book guys