New tariffs in place on Kamakura shirts…I feel bad for them, they have always had great customer service and make the best OCBD at that price point imo.
Dang! I just placed an order this morning and the tariffs were not charged. They sent out an update on the 19th that they were going to start imposing it but must have started today. Kamakura is awesome.
Several mail carriers have suspended sending packages to the US because of uncertainty surrounding the tariffs. They want to protect stores from packages being returned because US consumers are too unaware/don't understand the tariffs.
I'm not an American myself, but I doubt that to be honest. I remember pictures of Biden being heavily upvoted, while pictures of some Republicans dressed Trad were downvoted.
Reddit is a pretty left-leaning environment. You can't look at the front page or r/all for more than 30 seconds without seeing anti-trump rhetoric. If they see that and still voted for him then they're either anarchists or idiots. I firmly believe that r/conservative is about 80% astroturfing and 20% Qannon cultists who are addicted to the narrative and need their fix like junkies. There's no way the comments on that sub are made by rational, healthy people.
Not sure why you're being downvoted, but the EU hasn't introduced new tariffs on US goods. Taxes and duties have always been high for goods outside of the EU.
Yeah sure if you want lesser quality — currently the miiusa options aren’t as good as Kamakura (an exception being Gitman which is still more expensive than this shirt even after the tariff bs).
Or, as was the intention with global markets, we should allow countries that are good at particular things to export those products so countries that are better at different things can focus on those instead!
Why would you buy a RTW shirt for 150 or 200$ when you can get your local tailor to make a bespoke one for about the same price that's gonna have a way better fit?
You can even bring your own collar and they will replicate it.
Shirt fitting is way harder though. Because you can't make alterations and because there is way lees room for error. And then there is also personal preference. Most mtm companies struggle to make a well fitting shirt. Are there even bespoke shirtmakers that will make you a shirt for 150$ in the US? Fabric from a reputable mill will already cost ~50$.
Shirt fitting is way harder though. Because you can't make alterations and because there is way lees room for error.
I beg to differ. It is a lot less time consuming and expensive, in fact; if the collar isn't right you just get rid of it and start over, same with sleeves. Now, do that with a sport coat.
A shirt can also be taken in with relative ease and the cuffs can be detached and altered, something you clearly can't do with a suit jacket.
Are there even bespoke shirtmakers that will make you a shirt for 150$ in the US? Fabric from a reputable mill will already cost ~50$.
If there aren't then that’s mental and I should move there and start making bespoke shirts.
In Italy you can get a bespoke shirt on nearly every street corner for around 100 €. 150~200 € gets you handmade everything. Also, once the sewing pattern is created, each subsequent shirt is gonna cost a bit less.
I know the prices in Italy. But I also know that the makers there can get the fabric way cheaper without tariffs. I also know labour is much less expensive in Italy. There are way more skilled workers (and even Italians struggle to find replacements, you might know this being Italian) and there is way more demand. So please. Be my guest, move to the US and try to make a living on 150$ bespoke shirts.
A shirt can only be changed in one direction: taking it in. You can't replace the collar and change it in any meaningful way. Because the neckhole has already been cut obviously. Sleeves on sportscoats can be altered quite a bit. In fact they often are. You can change the position, increase or decrease the size of the armhole (as long as the jacket isn't finished) and change the length and width. You can do that with a shirt, yes, but only in one direction. Because there is no additional fabric to make it bigger. Not quite sure what taking off the cuffs of a shirt would do for a fitting. The problem with bespoke shirts is in the body and armhole. Two things you can't change after cutting. Yes, you can take them in but you can't just take them in everywhere. Taking the shirt apart, recutting and resewing is way slower than just doing another shirt. Which is why, you know this already, a lot of the shirtmakers in Italy make trial shirts. I also know the shirts that you mean and most of the time they are not "handmade everything" but there are handmade parts to them. Handmade everything (among the lines of D'Avino or since you seem to own one: G. Inglese) doesn't cost 150€. Or there are some up and coming tailors that can CMT you a shirt for around this price. (Having tried a few of them.) But then you'll have the problem of having an inexperienced cutter and usually a mix of other issues as well.
Now let's say you are incredibly fast and go from pattern making to finishing the shirt without a trial in 5h. Fabric costs you 30$ because you somehow got a deal on some single ply 80s fabric. That leaves you 120$. No taxes paid yet, no overhead, nothing else. 24$/h. Now let's say you work 40h/week and take no vacation. That will earn you 50k a year before tax. (If the calculators are right around 35k$ after tax.) And no shop rented, no machines paid, no haberdashery, nothing. Probably enough to make a living in the middle of nowhere but who's gonna buy bespoke shirts there?
Anyways. I guess you have not made a shirt before. Because if you have, you would know what you are saying does not make any sense.
My latest 5 bespoke shirts were made with Permanentstyle cloths (which I paid 56~58€ for, after taxes) and costed me 150 € each. Every little detail and buttonhole was handmade with pick stitching all over in one of the top shirtmakers in Turin. Beautiful atelier with a big window where you can see the guy and his daughter working on the shirts live.
The only downside is that it takes 15~ days and two fitting sessions to get one made.
I could've gone cheaper at the local tailor down the street but he would've taken longer cause he works alone. He usually takes care of my jackets and trousers though.
Not sure what point you're trying to make, altering a sport coat has always been way more expensive than taking in a shirt or replacing the collar because you don't like the roll, in my experience. The fabric costs a ton more, too.
I guess we'll chalk it up to the US being a lot more expensive than Italy, still, I wouldn't buy RTW shirts at that pricepoint cause they'll never fit right.
taking in a shirt or replacing the collar because you don't like the roll, in my experience.
Not really a change in patterns, is it?
Beautiful atelier with a big window where you can see the guy and his daughter working on the shirts live.
As is my experience with Italians. (Love it over there, no offense.) People underpaying themselves while working the whole day. Terrible hourly wage but I guess if you love your work then I won't blame them.
and two fitting sessions to get one made.
Exactly my point.
wouldn't buy RTW shirts at that pricepoint cause they'll never fit right.
I took a look at your instagram and you might have the most average figure ever. You're saying there are no shirts that will ever fit right? There are thousands of options out there. You yourself are wearing RTW shirts on there, aren't you? Stenstroems, G.Inglese? Because G.Inglese bespoke costs 450€
The G Inglese one is a camp-collar summer seersucker shirt that is meant to be worn a little oversize, no need for alterations there. Same goes fo my Bryceland's pieces.
The Stenstroms ones I bought 10 or 12 years ago when I wasn't as wealthy. I made sure the collar would fit and got them a little big and then they were taken in as needed. I wouldn't wear them without a jacket on top tho.
My body isn’t exactly average either, although I take that as a compliment; I look good because everything I wear has been tailored in some capacity. My tailor knows how to use subtle tricks to disguise my flaws, which is why I firmly believe that fit is king.
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