What methods are working for you guys to get all the bubbles out? 08 redline.
Changed water pump and thermostat and couldn't get it bled, found out I had no flow from the water pump. Replaced with a new water pump and thermostat (again) and drilled 2 small holes in the thermostat to help with air. Vacuum filled it, tried pushing air through the reservoir like ive seen in a video, tried using a no spill funnel, but I cant get the air out for the life of me. This new water pump does have good flow tho.
Prior to water pump/thermostat no temp issues, and the check valves are installed. Car will stay within a decent temp and have hot heat until I start driving it, after roughly 1-2 minutes the heat goes cold and the temp start climbing.
I'm looking to get a new muffler for my 2007 Sky Base with the 2.4. I definitely don't want to be annoying. So I'm not looking to straight pipe this thing haha.
What are some good options for some reasonable volume mufflers? Louder than stock but not anywhere near approaching straight pipes. What inlet and output sizes do I need?
This 12-pin connector was attached to the OnStar module - and if left disconnected results in a dead car. We need to jumper 2 of these wires to reattach the vehicla LANThis shows the jumers needed for proper vehicle functionality with the OnStar module removedI used custom heat shrink tubing to cover up the ends of the removed plugs and to keep the jumpers in place and protected from shorts.
Really, the heatshrink tubing was more of a pain then I was expecting - a good electrical tape job should be good enough.
Multimeter Test & Final Verification
With XM disconnected and OnStar bypassed, I reinstalled Fuse #56 and tested the draw:
Meter inline with negative cable.
Wait 20–30 minutes for sleep mode.
Final steady draw: ~0.017A (18 mA) — perfect.
A month after this fix, I have not had to charge the battery and it is still holding strong.
>12 Volts battery
✅ Results
Before: ~200mA–1.4A draw (battery dead in days).
After: ~18mA draw (normal).
Remote locks and trunk release still work.
OnStar is gone (doesn’t matter), XM disabled (if you had it).
🧭 Final Notes
Always let the car sleep before trusting your readings.
Start with Fuse 56 for confirmation, but don’t stop there.
XM is optional (remove only if you don’t care about losing it).
OnStar delete requires jumpers — don’t skip this step.
Bonus: swap the trunk light for LED while you’re in there.
This simple weekend job cured the battery vampire in my Sky.
If your Sky/Solstice keeps killing its battery after sitting, the most common culprits are Fuse 56 (engine bay), the Satellite XM module (trunk), and the OnStar VCIM (behind the seats).
Both OnStar and XM can draw power even if you don’t use them. Here’s how I tracked and fixed mine, step by step.
📑 Index
Multimeter Setup for Parasitic Draw Testing
Fuse 56 in Engine Bay – Quick Confirmation
Satellite XM Module in the Trunk
OnStar VCIM Behind the Seats (Jumper Required)
Multimeter Test and Final Verification
0. Multimeter Setup for Parasitic Draw Testing
Before pulling fuses or unplugging modules, you need to measure the draw correctly:
Make sure the battery is fully charged, the car is powered off (key out, lights off, doors closed).
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Put your multimeter in series between the battery post and cable.
Use the A/mA port.
Set to DC Amps.
Watch the reading — the car may spike at first, but let it “sleep” (20–30 minutes).
Normal draw: ~20–30 mA (0.020–0.030 A). Mine before fix: ~200–1400 mA (0.2–1.4 A).
Battery Voltage (Multimeter DC Volts setting)Negative battery cable disconnected. Connect the Multimeter with one cable to the negative battery post, and the other to the negative cable. The car needs to "sleep" for about 30 minutes after this before you start taking readings.DC Amps after connecting and while the car is still "awake"Starting to go to sleep - still some systems activeDC Amp reading after "sleeping" for aboutr 30 minutes. Reading is still 10x what it should be
Fuse 56 in Engine Bay – Quick Confirmation
A parasitic drain can come from anywhere. You can determine which one by pulling fuses one at a time. if you see a massive drop with a fuse pulled, look at what is powered by that circuit and go from there. Chances are, on a Kappa car, that it is Fuse #56 in the engine bay fuse box.
With the fuse in, I saw 200mA+.
Pulling Fuse #56 dropped the draw immediately.
Fuse 56 powers the OnStar module (which is no longer functional in these cars due to updates in cellular standards). It also powers the Satellite FM module. I have an aftermarket radio and don't need the OEM module.
⚠️ Note: Fuse 56 also powers RKE (keyless entry & trunk release). Don’t leave it out permanently unless you want to lose those functions — use this step as a diagnosis only. I didn't want to lose the remote lock/unlock - especially the remote trunk opening with the remote.
Engine Bay Fuse block. Fuse puller circled in red, as is your likely culprit, Fuse # 56Fuse pulledwith Fuse 56 pulled, I see an immediate drup into aa safe draw range.
Satellite XM Module in the Trunk
If you still subscribe to XM, NOTE — unplugging this disables it. Reconnect this after testing to ensure continuing functionality.
Passenger side trunk, under the carpet liner.
Remove the liner (a few fasteners).
Locate the silver XM module and unplug the harness.
After I disconnected mine, the current dropped significantly - but not enough <sigh>.
Passenger side of the trunk. We need to remove the cap and nut and peel open the trunk carpet to get to the XM ModuleTwist off the ruber coverThe bolt is a 10mmThis is the Satellite module, and it has 2 cables connecting it on the back sideThe disconnected data cable and antenna cableTuck away the cables, replace the carpet and reassemble the fasteners
👉 Tip: while you’re here, replace the trunk light with an LED bulb — brighter, cooler, and lowers long-term draw.
OnStar VCIM Behind the Seats (Jumper Required)
OnStar is dead in these cars, but the module is still tied into the car’s communication bus. If you simply unplug it, the car won’t run — it’s like cutting the spinal cord.
Remove trim behind the seats.
The silver box you uncover is the OnStar VCIM.
Disconnect the harnesses.
On the black 16-pin connector, you must install jumpers to keep the network loop intact.
Example: Pin 2 → Pin 8, Pin 3 → Pin 9 (verify against your connector).
I purchased a set of wire jumpers to use (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CJYSL2T?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title) but you only need 2 out of a 560 set box. Using short sections of 24 AWG wires, stripped and bent will also work. Some people have also used cut and bent paper clips - but I wanted something a bit more OEM
Seal with shrink tubing/tape.
Fold the seats forward to remove back trim panel.
To get to the module, you need to remove the door sill pieces, rear quarter pieces, the parking brake center piece, and the full rear piece (that includes the central storage cabinet. It is a lot of prying plastic tabs - be careful not to break any of the clips.
The rear speakers are also connected here and need to be carefully removed.
careful!This is where the OnStar module lives.There are multiple wires in the back that can all be disconnected, and 4 bolts holding it in place that can be removed.all unbolteddisconnected and ready to be chucked in the trash
I own a base model 07 sky. I am interested in maybe buying the OEM subwoofer mount that came with the monsoon fitted cars. I know i’ll need to have cables ran and such to make a sub actually work but will the mount itself actually seamlessly install behind the passenger seat even thought it originally wasn’t fitted with the monsoon sound system?
I recently had my 2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP tuned and also had an aftermarket exhaust installed, which included removing the catalytic converter.
Since then, I’ve been running into a few issues, most notably with boost. Sometimes I get full boost and the car runs great, other times it starts up with almost no boost or only partial boost. It feels totally random when this happens.
Here are the codes I’m getting:
P0236 – Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
Supposedly, the car has a custom tune and the mods were done professionally. I'm just trying to figure out why the performance is so inconsistent. I've checked for obvious vacuum leaks and loose connections but everything seems fine on a basic visual inspection.
Has anyone run into this before? Could this be a tune issue, a sensor problem, or something with the turbo bypass valve?
Any advice would be appreciated. I’d really like to get this sorted before I throw more parts at it blindly.
New 07 Sky owner. Bought the vehicle online. All looked good but I was expecting to be met with some small surprises. However, the entire trunk and some of the cab smells like mold/stagnant water. I felt the trunk liner and it was wet. I tried to clean some of it up but it was quite saturated. Upon further investigation I peeled back the liner to reveal quite a bit of water between the liner and the metal base of the trunk. Not good. The water is near some electrical which also highly concerned me.
Also noticed the right rear headlight housing full of condensation.
Does anyone else have experience with this? I’m quite worried. The car was outside for a while at a dealership for about a month.
Hey all, I designed and 3D printed a phone mount for my dad’s Saturn SKY and thought I’d share it here. It fits under the transmission tunnel and installs with strong double-sided tape — no cutting or drilling needed. Since it fits well in the SKY, it should work across the whole Kappa platform (Pontiac Solstice, Opel GT, etc.). I’ve made a few versions: Basic mount One with USB slot cutouts (for aftermarket radios — just the slots, no actual USB ports) A wireless charging version Logo options: Solstice, SKY And Opel GT I also have a couple of matching keychains that I plan on releasing soon (still working on a few) Not a big brand or anything — just figured I’d offer it after people started showing interest. If you want to check it out, here’s the link: https://mind2model.etsy.com/
I am brand new to my '07 Sky. There is a clicking sound deep in the dash on the driver's side. The vents don't blow properly. I replaced the first actuator. When I turned the key on and turned the knob to different settings (head, blend, feet ect) the sound continued. The problem is still there. I did see a white arm (3) above the actuator (1) that I replaced. What are the other two actuators called? Is there an easier way to access them? Floorboard life isn't for me.
Photo is from a Solstice forum.
I have a Redline, but it's in storage so I can't go measure this. I'm trying to find out how much space is behind the passanger seat with it slid all the way forward. I understand there's very very little. But I don't need much, and Googling I'm not finding an actual measurment anywhere. When I get it out of storage I want to have a shallow sub put in. And telling the shop "not a lot" for how much space doesn't help them at all lol. I'd like to know before hand so I can figure out how much $$$ I'll need for this adventure.
I know it's tight back there, but I'm thinking it'll be enough. The actual number would tell me if I can use Alpines shallow sub that comes in an box. 2 other option are having them make me a custom fabricated enclosure to go in the firewall. Or a custom one that slides under the passanger side footwell.
The shop needs to look at the car before they can quote me for the 2 custom jobs, but I'm assuming either would be a lot more $$$$ than the boxed verion Alpine sells. The box one's meant to be mounted under a seat so I'm assuming it'll fit, but I don't want to assume because I'm wrong, a lot. And if it won't fit I'm not sure I want to pay to have custom stuff fabricated, or the car modified so the sub will fit.
Got an oil extractor from eBay for $100 bucks. With the oil filter being on top, this is the easiest oil change I've ever done. 100% with the hundred bucks!!
So i ended up getting it for $14500. Only yellow manual around. Picked it up In NJ with 21500 miles on it. Drove it home almost 6 hours with no issues. Has a few minor scuffs on the paint. I'm thinking about swapping the wheels for some black ones and definitely need to upgrade the radio.
Hello! I just bought a 2008 base model Sky today! I’m looking to upgrade the stereo system to something touchscreen and with Bluetooth, at an affordable price. Any suggestions/ recommendations on ones that fit good? I’ve seen some websites kinda contradict eachother on what exactly fits, I was considering a Pioneer DMH-241EX. Thank you for the info!!
I've run across a beautiful looking 2007 sky, ad says no problems. under $6K. My concern is that it's got 220,000 miles on it. How bad an idea is buying it?
Recently came across a 5spd 2008 Yellow Sky w/21k miles for $14500. Thinking about taking the leap. Love the color and the mileage. Car Fax shows that it's been taken care of with 1 minor drivers side door collision. What to do. I've always wanted one and to me the price seems right.