I’m just getting into trad climbing, where I led my first trad route a few weeks ago. Had a blast, and have been obsessing about getting deeper into trad (and specifically, alpine climbing)

BD Momentums were my first pair of shoes, and the toe is starting to seperate. I understand I can get them resoled, but was thinking it’s a good time to get a proper trad shoe, and I don’t like how “flimsy” the uppers of the Momentums feel when jamming.

The Aspects and the Mythos both fit extremely comfortably, so looking for opinions from people who use one or the other (or tried both!)

Beginner trad climber here o/

It seems to me that the Totems having two alternative loops to clip onto is kind of a big deal compared to other cams. Yet, I can't find find any more info about choosing which loop to clip onto other than the picture above, taken from the manual.

Judging from the rope orientation I suppose this has to do with minimizing the cam walking. Is this correct? Are there other considerations that come into play here? What is your thought process when placing a Totem and deciding which loop to clip onto?

I will be reslinging all the hexes, its more the metal work, if there's no rust is it good? And on the nuts, how much ware in the plastic shrink wrap should there be if any?

Jeg har innsett at jeg trenger mer grundig opplæring i trad. Har vurdert å leie en guide for bygge opp kompetanse i trad klatring da jeg foretrekker 1:1 opplæring fremfor kurs/gruppe opplæring. Har noen erfaring med denne fremgangsmåten? Og har noen kjennskap til noen dyktige guider i Sørøst Norge som kan gjøre den typen opplæring?

So I've been Trad climbing for about a year now, my gear placements are getting better, and my skills are constantly improving, but I feel like I've hit a barricade. I get too scared to climb above my gear. I can sit on it and rest, however I'm not tired or pumped out. Even on low grade climbs I find I'm getting too scared to climb and end up top roping the route, which just feels unrewarding because I really like placing gear and leading, but I just feel super scared once I try to go above my gear. How can I reduce my fear factor? Is it just more hours on the rocks? Is it really that simple and eventually the fear goes away or is it something else? I've been focusing on training harder so I'm stronger and don't have to think about placing gear on bad holds. Any advice appreciated!

Hello,

Some friends and I are getting together for a trip to the Winds, and leave tomorrow. Except the forecast looks unpleasant, so we are working out a backup plan. We meet in Grand Junction and pick up a rental car there. We are looking for nice weather next week and some chill multipitch trad in a pretty setting. We are prepared for the backcountry but would be fine car camping or renting a spot. Would prefer to keep the drive under 12 hrs from Grand Junction. Thank you!

Can’t find any info of them online. Cobra brand. Got them from my uncle who used to climb In The 90s or so. Yes I still use them and yes they catch whips. (Aus based if it helps).

I saw this topo of a highpoint of an bigwall attempt in 1984. I was wondering, how does a team abseil from such a great height? I suppose having x amount meter of 5mm cords and extra nuts and carabiners would at some point run out.

Which should I be annoyed with? I got these shoes resoled a while back and finally swapped out my current pair for them. I have climbed maybe 15 pitches in them and am pretty disappointed to see this level of delamination and wear and tear. The biggest issue being the roughly inch long hole on the outer edge of the left shoe which happened after I got out of an off width pitch which I felt my footwork was decent in. I have never had a shoe bust through so suddenly like that. Was it a bad resole job? Bad luck? Another reason to hate OW? Trying to decide if I should use this cobbler again or not. Curious what people think. Also curious if anyone has any recommendations, bonus points if they are near SoCal.

My buddy starting up what we thought was an existing route but appears to be unrecorded, after we did some research and asked around.

If anyone has info on this one please reach out. Felt like 9 or 10- climbing on successive 1 pods.

1. What do you prefer? I’m new and not sure if i should go for ange L(34g) for easier clipping/handling, or ange s that only weight 28g. Or one of each(they take up the same width on the harness). Open for suggestions 🤷🏻‍♂️

2. Should i use a locking carabiner for an ascender and foot loop? If so would a twist lock be okey?

3. Twist lock okey for micro traxion? I’m going to use two micro traxions for top rope solo.

Hello, I am buying my first pair of half ropes. I will be mainly using these for trad multipitch climbs in the alpine. Do you think this is a smart purchase for my needs? It seems to be the best deal for half ropes that I can find right now. I'm mainly concerned about the diameter. the other options I have for half ropes are only 0.4 mm larger but are about double the cost.

If you climbed the Saber RMNP today, here is a pic of you

Edit with some comments resources that got buried: - No, there is no attempt at equalization, only redundancy. - Yes, you can belay the leader off the anchor, though this is an advanced technique. The purpose of belaying this way is to avoid thrashing the belayer in the event of a violent fall. In recent years, this has been dubbed the "fixed point lead belay" in English. - Yes, this is an approved configuration by Edelrid, see the manual, section 4b. They do note that this a fall in this configuration can increase forces on the climber (DeBruin's tests measured this to be approximately .75kN extra). This is offset by no force felt by the belayer. - Forces on the anchor are approximately the same or even lower than body belaying. - Yes, it can be done with trad gear, though usually you want to add an upward piece that's good for 2-4kN to the master point. I usually use the backside of my clove to do this. This piece is not bearing the weight of a leader fall, only the upward pull.

Here are some resources to learn about FPLBs: - ENSA video - DeBruin, D. (2018). Comparison of fall forces between fixed-point and redirected belays in rock and ice climbing systems (Rev. 2019) [PDF]. American Mountain Guides Association.) - ACMG blog and video - ACMG Slideshow - German Alpine Club - DAV slides - AlpineSavvy

And some examples used by real, certified guides. I am sorry about the instagram:

• ACMG: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DAV6aJ0uWzQ/
• ACMG: https://www.instagram.com/p/CSH5BvnJVB5/
• https://www.instagram.com/reel/CzbrAZNJR8B/
• IFMGA: https://www.instagram.com/p/CFwuGNdDvKj/

hello I'll be going to chamonix soon and am wondering if I should buy some half ropes because I usually only climb with a 70m single rope. I would like to do some multipitch climbing grade II and III climbs nothing too crazy but am wondering if it's totally necessary to buy half ropes before I go there or if I can get away with my set up. I'd also appreciate any recommendations on half ropes! or should I just buy a beal escaper or a tag line? My main concern are raps.

Saw someone else's crack machine the other day and decided to make my own. Used left over beams from another project, can be adjusted just with one wrench from fist to fingers.

We all know Alex Honnold brings bell peppers to the crag. My friend swears to snickers, while I'm all about dates and peanuts.

Whats your go to snack for keeping your energy levels up on long days?

I've used TC pros for 5 years and they simply will never fit my feet. I get blisters on my heels, and my feet get really painful on multipitches( Yes, I've tried different sizes and wearing them in). But they are the only shoes I have that I can use for jamming without killing my toes.

Does anyone have any good alternatives to the TC Pros where you can foot jam comfortably?

I mainly use a 9.2 mm 60 m single rope, and when the approach is long, I sometimes use an 8.8 mm 60 m triple-rated rope as a single rope.

However, for routes where a 60 m rappel is required, there’s no problem when climbing with three or more people, but with just two climbers, it’s not possible to get by with only one 60 m rope.

In that case, could I use the 9.2 mm single rope together with the 8.8 mm triple-rated rope as a double rope?
I’d rather not buy a separate tag line, and I’m also considering buying another 8.8 mm rope to make a matching pair for double rope climbing — but since there aren’t many routes where a double rope is absolutely necessary, I’m hesitating.