Hey I have a Corsa and the change oil error has appeared. Oil is half way up the dip stick and I drive less than 1000 miles a year. It's fine to just reset it right? Seems to be fine on colour

Hello,

Today my car (2013 Astra 2.0CDTI 162hp) showed engine too hot and then started badly shaking and misfiring. I waited a while with the bonnet open and it had cooled down, started it again to pull into a service station and immediately after turnover the issue happened again. I called the AA who came out and said it was an issue with the exhaust temperature sensor.

Has anyone else had something similar?

Hello r/Vauxhall !

I wanted to make a post here basically so I could just type out what I have to say. I guess I just have to get it out of my brain and onto the screen, so please bear with me.

17 yeas ago I was in a Vauxhall dealership. I needed a replacement car and I wanted a new car. Nothing flashy just something that would be cheap to run, insure and repair, easy to work on and practical. I was looking at the Corsa D when the salesman came up to me.

As it happened, I was looking at a Corsa Breeze. They had those in stock, and they had an over-stock of the Breeze plus they were trying to get rid of. The regular Corsa Breeze was £11,500, The Breeze Plus was £10,000. I took it for a test drive, was immediately take by surprise by their (now) notoriously sharp brakes, and I was sold.

Since they had them in stock, 2 days later I was able to drive home my brand new car, Who I named Iggy.

Like every car, he had his quirks that I just got used to. For example; on cold winter mornings, if I just got in and drove him, acceleration in 2nd would be jerky as hell like a cylinder wasn't firing. But if I started him and waited about 60 seconds just to get some heat into the engine, he'd work just fine. No mechanic could ever spot the problem, so I just got used to it (I suspect now I had a problem injector that was still just about within tolerance at any other time)

The Beauty of the Corsas is they are so common that everyone knows how to work on them, there's millions of guides to help you figure out what's wrong, and because they are such a common car, parts are cheap. So I learned how to do basic fixes myself. Never a bad thing, really. And when comparing prices on having a garage do it vs. just buying the parts and tools, I saved myself thousands over the years.

He passed 100,000 miles in 2015 and when he was serviced it was noted that the timing chain was getting a little loud. Any Vauxhall-certified garage wanted £800-£1200 to replace this and it wasn't a job I could do myself. I soon found out that Kwikfit (Specifically Kwikfit PLUS, regular ones won't do it) will do it for about £300, on a bank holiday Monday, using Bosch parts. Considering everything else under the bonnet is Bosch, I was fine with that.

When E10 petrol came out I discovered that Iggy would run on the stuff but absolutely HATED starting on it. I could get away with putting a mixture of E5 and E10 in there but it was just far easier to run him on E5, and he became more fuel efficient as I did anyway. Where Shell tell you that you'll get 30 more miles to a tank, I got 60. I actually tested that.

I didn't personalise him too much. I have a dashcam (as everyone should) that, naturally, I installed myself. I had some Team Heko wind guards so that in the summer, when he was parked I could leave the windows down a little, and the sunroof popped open so that heat would have a way to escape, which would help the air conditioning, and I had an air freshener shaped like a Geko stuck to the back windows...but that was about it.

By 170,000 I was starting to come to terms with the reality that he isn't going to last forever and I had started saving hard to buy myself my next brand new car. He was starting to rust in places, although he hadn't needed more than just basic parts that you expect to have to replace (battery, breaks, belts, bulbs etc) I knew that was only a matter of time before he started to need more expensive parts. But for now, I was making the most of the time we had left together, and I was going to sell him on to someone else who would care for him just as much as I had.

Over the years, life had dealt me some pretty hard blows. But not Iggy. He was stable when life wasn't. I had a point where everyone I know turned their back on me because of some nasty accusations that went around, But not Iggy. He was reliable when people weren't. I knew I could count on him.

Last year, as we approached the 185,000 miles mark, I noticed a water rushing noise from the heater matrix as I accelerated. "That's not right" I thought. I got home, checked under the bonnet, the water level looked a tad low but we're talking only about 50ml low....so maybe the garage hadn't quite filled it all the way up when he was last serviced. Wait for him to cool down, top the coolant up properly and no biggie.

Over the coming months I realised it was a biggie. When I would fill the coolant up I would hear a rush of air escape the cap and a bubbling noise from deep inside the car as I opened the radiator cap. I couldn't work out where the coolant had been going but now I had my suspicions. I bought a head gasket testing kit. These things cost like £20 off Amazon and are dead simple to use. Sure enough, the liquid changed colour. It didn't go yellow, so things weren't bad yet, but it did go green, which means there is a problem but MAYBE I had caught it soon enough.

I know a lot of people hate sealants but I'm not skilled enough to change a head gasket and a head gasket replacement job is very expensive. So I tried some K-Seal ultimate. I have a mechanic friend who recommended it, but he said "Put it in and plan to sell the car....but to the trade. Not to another person"

So I followed the instructions on the K-seal and...it seemed to work. Maybe I had caught the problem soon enough. When I re-ran the head gasket test 3 months later, it was fine. Phew.

195,000 miles and I hear a water rushing noise again. "Damn it". I re-ran the head gasket test...but I didn't need to. As soon as I opened the coolant filler cap, I could smell exhaust fumes. Sure enough, I ran the test again and the liquid turned yellow basically straight away. My mechanic friend looked and said "Your head gasket is f**ked, mate. Sorry."

I kept driving him. Knowing that his engine is now on borrowed time. I kept my eye on the temperatures and we got past 200,000 miles. My local garage where I get him serviced and MOTed were astonished that they kept seeing him, but they kept servicing him and, even on the most recent service said "Aside from the head gasket issue you already know about....clean bill of health"

But now he's starting to overheat from time-to-time. So I knew it was time to start looking for a stop-gap car as I don't have the cash saved up for the one I want.

Last week I found a red, 16-reg Corsa E with 50,000 on him for £4000 and absolutely nothing wrong with it. After a decent test-drive, The dealership agreed to hold onto it for a week to give me time to make my mind up.

I came home and the following day decided that I would take Iggy up to my nearby country park to at least make sure I had some nice photos of him, come what may. Which I did.

Took some fantastic pictures. The trees and wildlife all around him and a man-made lake behind him. They all came out pretty damn well.

I got back into Iggy...and he wouldn't start.

I called the RAC who couldn't get him started. Towed him to the garage I normally use and they confirmed it. He was gone. 203,062 miles, in a secluded country park, overlooking a man-made lake and he had slipped away peacefully.

Rest in peace, my friend Iggy.

Sorry if stupid question but does the imagina 2015 have front side lights/parking lights? Both are out if so . I literally can’t remember. I know my vivaro doesn’t but i could have swore my insignia did. Mot soon. Thanks

I have a strange issue with my 2013 Astra J 1.4 Turbo. After long drives when the engine is idling I hear a low-pitch chirp/pop noise coming from the rear of the car (sounds like it’s from the exhaust).

Details: – Never happens on short rides. – Only shows up when the engine/exhaust are fully hot after long trips. – Spark plugs, coils, canister valve and MAF sensor already replaced. – Throttle body cleaned and calibrated. – No check engine light or stored codes. – slight misfire feeling at idle when the noise occurs. – Exhaust system inspected, no visible damage.

Any ideas would be appreciated Im running out of things to check

Hi Guys! Just bought this car (second hand obviously) and my battery went flat yesterday. i couldn’t really manage to get the radio working before but now its like it’s completely gone. i press all of the buttons in the box but nothing happens? idk if im being super stupid or if there is something wrong with it? thank you in advance!

Just brought a 2022 petrol Grandland. Was advised at the dealership that I would be able to down this app and use it to see stuff like my trips, fuel, alerts ect. Tried multiple time to connect with no luck. The car is definitely connected via Bluetooth as my phone shows up right away. Within the app I get nothing at all, sometimes an error about needing to connect to Bluetooth (which it is). Vauxhall have been very unhelpful

What is the best year for a Vauxhall Insignia diesel manual? Thinking of upgrading my current Insignia (2010).

Hi everyone.

Bought a 2010 astra twintop so prob (h) not (j) last month. Came with only 1 key.

I have security and radio codes. Is it worth buying a vauxcomm/opcomm to program a new key? Are these the right codes?

Quoted New key cut for ~£70 no programming, £160 for programmed.

Can I buy a blank (cut) key and program it myself with the right software and an opcomm?

Hello all, I have a vauxhall Corsa SRI 2017 1.4 75ps. I can’t seem to locate the “min & max” markers for my coolant/antifreeze reservoir. Where would you say this is? Also, what type of coolant & antifreeze should I buy please, the manual just says it has to be silicate free long life. I’ve also been told I should use a pink coolant/antifreeze but I’m struggling to find this? Would the screenshot I’ve added be the correct one? Thanks!

So my crossland has been off the road after stuttering going into limp mode and coming up with an engine light, the whole car also shakes when I turn it off. I got it scanned and it said air flow problem, I’ve changed the MAF sensor but it still has not fixed it. Further on from this, I went and got a DPF filter regen done, to which also has not solved the issue. I don’t suppose anyone knows what it could possibly be or has had the same problem?

Does anyone have an stl or a product to replace the vectra c front cupholders with a better version thatt can actually hold a small can and also a big one?

Looking to buy an astra K 2015-2016 manual 110.000 miles+ I’ve got two options the petrol 1 liter sri version from 2015 or a diesel 1.6 liter cdti design version. I don’t car that much about power i just need something to get me from A to B. Will be doing about 35+- miles per day. Looking for something economical yet reliable but not sure about which engine to go for.

Here's the specs: Opel Astra Gtc model 1,4 turbo. 125hp Car in good condition as per his age, few scratches here and there. Half letter seats, multifunction steering wheel, six speed gearbox, 18” wheels.

126,000 km on the clock, asking price is €5.5k, could probably get it to €5k

Update: based on your comments, I'm steering clear of this car

Pretty much what the title says. I live in the UK and have been looking at insignia VXR’s as my next potential buy. Not looking for anything in particular out of it but it looks like a fun/sporty drive whilst still being practical. Looking for a second opinion as to whether it’s worth getting one in this day and age as most of them are in the high mileage zone now.

Hoping someone can share some insight here.

A few months ago, when I had a car full of people (5 total), an EML came on as I was approaching 65mph on a dual carriageway - it lost some power, I stayed at 65mph, pulled into a lay-by, turned it off and on, the EML stayed but power returned.

A few days later, EML turned off. I carried on as normal.

About a month ago, exact same thing happened - car full of people, trying to get to 70, EML and reduced power occurred. I read the code this time, it was U2099 Turbo Fault. Wiped the code off and carried on as normal (I rarely have a full car and it drives fine with just me in it).

I have since noticed the accelerator seems low, as in my foots close to the floor and it feels like I’m not getting much from it. I also used to do 30mph in 4th but struggle unless I’m doing 35-38mph now.

EML came on again last week when I was doing 70 with just me and another person in the car. I read the code, it said P0299 engine under-boost.

Is this definitely new turbo time? Or could it be something else. Someone checked pipes for me and they said they seem fine - there is one at the bottom that they couldn’t see though.

I should also point out I have intermittent electrical issues - dash says lights are out when they’re not, or I’ll have a headlight out and then the next day it’s fine. My horn stopped working the other day but now it’s fine. Is it related? It’s 1.6 diesel 100k miles

Many thanks in advance

Anybody know where I can a new trim for my 2013 astra gtc ?

^{While driving on Sat my engine light came on and a Reduced Engine Power warning flashed on my dash, I left the car at my local Garage. They have called to advise the car needs a new Turbo (£1800} the car is 5 years old and has done under 35000 miles - does this sound correct?)

Been advised the error code is P0299 - Engine Underboost

Hi everyone, my Vectra B recently had a problem. The ABS and TC lights on the dashboard are constantly on, and there's no speedometer. I don't have a diagnostic computer and don't know the fault code. The local repair shop was also unable to help. I'd like to know what the cause of this problem is and what parts should be replaced. Any answers would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Dealer has a '23 Combo that looks good - but it's not been taxed since October.

I know a month of two, even maybe 3 isn'y abnormal for a car going through the trade - but 11 months seems excessive, no?

Also, are there any common faults with the pre facelift Combo Electric? I see posts about engines, but obviously not an issue here - and one post about a recall / Firmware update that needed doing to allow it to charge.

Any help appreciated - the Combo E doesn't seem to have a strong forum footprint.

So I have a 2014 Vauxhall Astra GTC. Back in march I had my MOT and my car had an issue where something on the back was broken.

I can’t remember what it was but it was near the rear passenger wheel. It was either suspension or something like that. I had it repaired.

Ever since then my car now makes noises whenever I go over bumps, pot holes etc.

It’s like a loud bang. It sounds like something knocking against something. Metal on metal.

It didn’t do this before the repair though.

Also. We went on holiday just after the repair and the car was making this noise for around 30-40 minutes and then it went away for the rest of the 2 hour journey.

Then coming home it did it again for the roughly the same time and then went away again.

Any ideas what it could be? Sorry for being pretty vague.

Hi! I have this in my Vauxhall Corsa Ecoflex 2011, and i heard you can take it out and put a cup holder and such however i can’t seem to find any that are compatible. any help would be appreciated!

I noticed that the radiator fan on my corsa (2014 1.2L petrol) would turn on almost instantly as soon as I started the car. For a couple weeks I thought nothing of it until I saw a spanner light on the dash. I had been told by the garage that did this year’s MOT that my water pump was leaking so I assumed that this must have been causing the issue. Me and a friend replaced the water pump on the car and I bought an obd metre to track the temp of the coolant. After completely refilling it the engine is back to a constant 90 degree temp, but the fan kicks in anyway and the spanner light turns on after a few seconds still. It takes longer for this to happen now, but it will still turn on without fail. Don’t know if this is some simple fix as I am somewhat knowledgeable about cars but I don’t know a great deal, but if someone could provide any info as to why the fan keeps coming on then that would be great.