Hi, so today when applying for random plumbing related indeed job postings with a plumber helper resume, I got a call at 12 noon from a guy saying yeah the job posting was for plumber foreman but we also need new people so you can come work tomorrow 7 am. He messaged a tool list and said, "Go buy today. You need them if you want to work". From his list I got the stuff in the picture (Impact Drill, Channel Locks, Crescent Wrench, Screwdriver Set, Level, Pipe wrench, Allen Key Set, Tape Measure, Poly Cutters, X-Acto Knife, 5/16 Nut Driver, Battery for the drill, Nail Puller, some borrowed for sometime, some bought) but I couldn't get the drill driver that he asked. Chatgpt is saying that it is a very important tool and I should've got it but I just didn't have the money to buy it new and couldn't get it on marketplace today. The way he said buy it today if u wanna work makes me think I screwed up for not getting a very important tool maybe I am just being paranoid. Also, I am in total disbelief that I got offered the position so quickly since getting a plumber helper position in Vancouver, BC, is really difficult according what i have heard on the internet and from a journeyman plumber. What do I do now? I have never worked for anyone other than doing food delivery gigs. It all happened so quickly that i dont even know how to act. No interview just a 5 min call with an address and starting time. Idk know what question to ask u guys. Any tips please thank you very much.

We bought a place in Brooklyn, New York, not knowing it was not properly permitted for water. We need to have a plumber come and install a new water meter and get a water permit. We are being quoted 18-20k. The reason we are being given for this exorbitant price is that we have a certain sprinkler system. Does this seem right? This seems insane! Thank you.

Three years ago I installed a State hybrid water heater in my basement. We are on a private well and have several different types of water filters before the water heater. It ran great on efficiency mode for 3 years before suddenly showing ICE on the display along with a clean filter code and would only make luke warm water. I have always stayed on top of the filter and even cleaned the coil when this code persisted. Coincidentally the unit blew a heating element not long after the ICE code (when changing the elements I noticed a lot of mineral buildup inside the unit). After some diagnostics with the help line they are telling me the incoming water temp is too cold - it was fine for 3 years... I currently have the unit locked on full electric mode. Has anyone experienced this? Is it possibly a suction temp sensor issue, maybe something on the heatpump side? Unit never showed signs of frost on the coil. I now have a very expensive electric water heater.

Hi all,

New here. I'm working on upgrading my photographic darkroom. It's a cinderblock basement situation, with pipes connecting to a utility sink. I'm upgrading the sink but need to mount the faucet on the wall (the upgraded sink has no backsplash etc.). As such, I'm looking for a wall mounted faucet that has supply lines coming in from below (not from above or from the wall). So far I've only found one model: The Chicago 835 that has the option to have the supply lines come from below, but it's $900. Am I just looking the wrong place? I was thinking this would be an obvious type of faucet but I can't find many examples. Thanks

Im living in my rv which has a 6 gal propane water heater, works well and havent ever used it to its full capacity. Im removing the propane system from the rv and need to go electric. Would this 20 gal point of use water heater suffice for a single person who never has more than one hot water demand at a time? I would use it as a direct replacement for the propane water heater, so it would supply the shower and two sinks.

Hi everyone! I’m not sure exactly how to word this because I don’t know the correct terminology but I hope my question makes sense…

We have a tree in our front yard that has roots that possibly has broken a line or pipe underground of our water. Our yard is probably about 40 feet or so? Our water bill has increased obviously and the water company said that’s what they expect has happened.

We have not had a plumber come out to check the situation yet. Mainly because I’m worried it’ll be expensive to have them diagnose what’s wrong so I’ve been ignoring the problem 😂 believe me, I know that’s a terrible plan.

Im just curious of what we should expect when we do call a professional to come sort out the problem? We are in Arkansas, if location makes a difference.

Thanks for any advice!

Hello, I have a double kitchen sink that was draining slower than normal. I poured hot water and tried to plunge it and now it is almost completely plugged. Any ideas on what I could try next? Thanks

I purchased a house with a washer hookup in the kitchen. My plan is to delete that hookup to regain square footage in the kitchen and install a small ventless stackable washer/dryer in a closet that is approximately 25 feet away from the main drain. The house has a relatively accessible crawlspace...I've been in it several times cleaning up the water lines and add a cutoff.

My plumber is quoting $1.800 to run water lines to the washer location along with a drain. He says they will also need to tie into a vent in the attic. That seems excessive to me. How critical is a vent line for a low water usage washing machine? Is there something I'm missing here?

It almost smells like an exposed P Trap. The cat from casteel offered to replace Air Admittance valve for $400, or reroute the entire line for $1200. Any help would be great!

TIA.

I’ve recently had my sandpoint well repaired and back up and running for exterior water. When talking to the plumber, he suggested I convert my line from 1/2” to 3/4”.

I’ve been pricing everything out and was wondering about my outdoor spigot.

It’s currently 1/2” and I’m curious if running 3/4” line would be pointless if trying to increase my GPM. Do I need to replace the spigot as well?

TIA

We recently (~4-6 weeks ago) had some bathroom work done. This included reworking of some drain lines. Since then, every so often we will get a strong sewer gas smell in the adjacent laundry room, which is a small room. The only drain in that room is the washer drain. The laundry room is half a level above the bathroom (split level). I’m assuming something is causing the washer trap to drain, causing the smell? Sometimes we’ll go 1+ weeks without the smell, other times only a day or two. I haven’t been able to recreate what specifically causes it, but it seems to happen more often on weekends when everyone in the house is home and when it rains. I plan to have the plumber come back out for this but the only thing that seems to be different from before the work is how the toilet/shower tie into the waste line and that the washer drain and sink drain now tie together before entering the main line. The toilet/shower tied in at the horizontal run and now tie in at the vertical. I’ve included a before and after sketch of the plumbing, as well as a picture of the current drain lines. Any advice before meeting with the plumber would be greatly appreciated!

I have been trying to order it but no vendor seem to know about this. It's at a pumping station. Size is 14" in diameter, about 9" in length and has 12 bolt holes.

So today I made a hot mess with our new detachable shower head and the water leaked outside both curtains unto the floor reaching the toilet not far away. It wasn’t soaked used a towel to dry the water up and was no more wet then wiping up after a mopping. I shower in like lukewarm water. He is beyond irate saying we have to have someone come and fix it and it’s going to cost like $700. Did I really ruin the seal? First pic is of the side while still wet not after dried and the 2nd pic the other normal side. Thank you so much just need to know what to get emotionally and mentally prepared for.

I'm trying to repair my kid's bathtub drain which only stops water 50% of the time. I took the stopper out and was surprised to not find any kind of rubber gasket. Did it just disintegrate or did the old drains not have them? If no, does the gasket go on the stopper or flange? Thank you

Hello, I am a first time homeowner. Recently my shower had water leakage which then turned into full on spraying. I had a plumber look at it and he found the leak on the rubber in the Supply line but he said it is a proprietary line and that it would take a new system costing 2k. He said because due to the 90 degree angle, size(10 inches), that he could not find it. Is there really no replacement for this. I found this on Walmart but he said it is too big but might be able to fit in. He said if I get it can attempt for $150. Can someone tell me if there is any better choice?

It doesn’t look like any valve I’ve seen online. It is in direct sight line from the city connection on the street. House was built in the early 90s. Not an emergency, btw.

Hello, looking for advice for the recommended way to repair this area. Since there is a connection here, should we put some kind of access cover over the floor or are we good to tile over it again?

For context, we just had a plumber out to repair a crack in our ancient cast iron stack. He replaced about a 10ft section with PVC. This photo shows where he had to connect to the old section. The old cast iron was grouted and tiled over, hence why our plumber had to essentially chisel the old piece out.

I hired someone with plumbing experience (not exactly a plumber) to connect the plumbing when we got a new sink a few years ago. At the time, my husband was upset that this person used that accordion type thing instead of installing a proper P-trap. Life went on and now I’m noticing a bad smell every time we use this sink. How bad is this? Is it likely that mold is growing in there?

We have a water softener system that has about a foot of 1/2” diameter discharge hose coming off the back of our garage. The ground in the area is fully saturated and the runoff started killing the plants in the area. For various reasons we can’t bury the line or do a french drain. We need to run something above ground about 100ft down a slope to the roadside ditch. I’m looking for a recommendation for something that is flexible, durable (won’t degrade quickly in the summer heat with temps around 75-85 on average but up to 95F, and will be fine over winter, where it very rarely drops below 20F but is usually around 30F), and not incredibly expensive. Would greatly appreciate any recommendations!!

Hi! I bought a shower cady that needs to go on the shower head in my apartment, but I’m struggling hard to be able to remove it. I also have 0 tools fml, but I’m willing to try!! How would I remove this? Twisting with my hands is getting me nowhere

Filled up our tub to the top and this piece just floated off. I've read its a snap on, but ive tried everything and it wont go back on. Is it the end of the world if I just superglue it in place?

hey all- we live in a flipped house (I know... I know...), and need to replace at least 2 of the toilets. what criteria should I be looking for as I research replacements? i.e.- product specifics, measurements (where?), manufacturers (who to avoid and/or who's alright), purchase locale (i.e. "no big box" or are they ok?). I did some base-level research already & realized I'm way in the weeds--- I figured y'all would be a great resource for help. thanks in advance!