r/climbing • u/umbraphile1724 • 13d ago

ego grades and mentality

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A coach came up with this concept of ego grades and how they relate to your climbing mentality, which he divides into fighters and dancers. I could relate to elements of both, but ultimately think I'm more of a fighter. hbu?
https://www.climbing.com/skills/technique/climb-better-archetypes/

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u/yesennes 13d ago

The trick is to not acknowledge the grade. It's sandbagged, and there's no way it's actually a 5.12. You've climbed many easier 5.13s.

Blaming your build also works. You're too tall/short for that position and just need to find the tall/short beta.

Plus if it's after your first two climbs, you're just tired. You'll get it next time.

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u/Fresh-Anteater-5933 13d ago

If it’s one of your first two climbs, it’s because you’re not warmed up

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u/dmtay7 13d ago

the article isn't actually about grades, but about our approach to different styles/levels of difficulties