r/climbingshoes Aug 23 '24

When to resole

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12 Upvotes

Hi everyone, I've had my dragos and after 3mo of climbing they look like that, Im total newbie when it comes to climbing shoes ( my last pair ended with a hole size of bug toe xd) I want to treat those better as I really love these shoes. So therefore, is it time to resole? And can I climb 1 more month with them, as id love to climb some more and i know resoling takes some time.

Advice much apprecieated, cheers!


r/climbingshoes Jul 23 '20

Welcome to /r/climbingshoes

15 Upvotes

I'm your mod /u/lvzxy and recently gained control over this subreddit after the previous moderator disappeared. Looking forward to developing it as a resource for climbers of all skill levels to discuss, review, and perhaps trade climbing shoes.

Let me know your thoughts and suggestions, I'll be making major changes to the subreddit's rules, designs, etc. in the coming weeks. Thanks for stopping by.


r/climbingshoes 2h ago

Blisters on toes, can I go climbing?

2 Upvotes

I wore new shoes (my first pair, I've only started) for the first time and 2 blisters formed and popped(?) I taped it and continued with rentals because my own were too painful. Now it's been over a week and I wanna go climbing again so bad but the blisters haven't healed yet. I put a blister band-aid on the worst one (didn't close at all, the other one is still bloody red but I can touch it without pain and it has a deep red crust on top.

Do I try again in my shoes in hopes of it getting better or are the blisters gonna keep getting worse? Should I just wear the comfy rentals? Or should I not go climbing at all?


r/climbingshoes 2h ago

Vintage Climbing Shoes

1 Upvotes

My question is easy. Where can I find some vintage rock climbing shoes that were used in the 80's? Patrick Edlinger-type shoes to be clear.


r/climbingshoes 10h ago

bed bug decontamination

1 Upvotes

I have a bed bug infestation and I'm trying to figure out if it is possible to decontaminate my shoes without damaging them too much. I currently have leather skwamas that are two months old. My options are basically 1. Heating shoes to 50 C either with a clothes dryer or a steamer. I feel like this would damage the rubber and leather 2. Freezing the shoes for 72 hrs. This would also probably damage the rubber 3. Storing shoes in a sealed container with diatomaceous earth and removing every time I climb. I'm worried this will dry out the leather too much and would still have some contamination risk. 4. Seal shoes in a bag for 6 months to a year to starve the existing bugs out.

I just bought these shoes and finally finished the break in process so I would really prefer not to have to buy new ones, but would also prefer not to destroy them. Have any of you dealt with this problem before?


r/climbingshoes 1d ago

Llanberis resoling (UK)

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22 Upvotes

For anyone that is looking for a resoler in the UK, I highly recommend llanberis(Wales based)

Send off 4 pairs of shoes and got em back within a week and half. One of which was my friends madrock drones, that are notoriously difficult to get resoled in the UK.


r/climbingshoes 14h ago

scarpa vapor v sizing help

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0 Upvotes

r/climbingshoes 14h ago

EB is it good?

1 Upvotes

I was looking for a perfo climbing shoes and my eyes fall onto the EB's Balboa. I'm from Italy and this is a French brand, so i would like to know if there are some stores where i can try them and decide which size is good for me, more than that is the resole issue. Basically everyone resole Lasportiva/Scarpa's shoes, but EB has its own sole. I live near France, maybe if it's worth. if you have tried the shoes also give me a feedback before i get into it .


r/climbingshoes 15h ago

Tips for cleaning Tenaya Oasi (or shoes in general)

0 Upvotes

I have a pair of Tenaya Oasi’s that I’m gonna send for a resole, but in all honesty, they reek. I’m looking for ways to thoroughly clean them to get the smell out, and to spare the shoemaker for som terror. I would also love some tips for a good shoemaker. I live in Norway, but I’ll gladly ship em overseas.

Thanks.

Edit: I also bought a new pair of Scarpa Drago XT’s, so I was maybe considering making the Oasi soles stiffer, since I only have these two pairs of shoes. Does anyone have experience with that?


r/climbingshoes 17h ago

mad rocks remora LV beta edition sizing

1 Upvotes

im going from a scarpa instinct size 42 and they felt a little big i was running my street shoe size. should i do my street shoe size for the remoras or should i downsize half size or even a full size?


r/climbingshoes 21h ago

Which shoes should I get (beginner)

2 Upvotes

Im getting my first pair of climbing shoes for bouldering after climbing in rentals for 10 sessions now. I’m choosing between the Madrock Rovers or the Evolv Defy. Both are pretty cheap but there is a big price difference between the two. Im a broke beginner and im at a V3-4 level rn. Im coming back from a 2 week break after spraining my ankle and I’m really excited!


r/climbingshoes 19h ago

Resoling questions

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1 Upvotes
  1. Is this shoe ready to be resoled (shaman pros)

  2. Where in the US can I get them resoled. (I live in indiana.)

  3. Is this shoe worth resoling.


r/climbingshoes 22h ago

Unparallel TN Pro LV - Tenaya Oasi LV - comparison?

1 Upvotes

I love Tenaya Oasi LV, it's hard for me to find any other shoe that fits my skinny feet. Now I'm looking for a shoe with a slightly stiffer midsole. I read good things about UP TN Pro LV and was wondering if someone tried both of these models and can report on the fit?

My street shoe size is 40.5, I wear 38.5 in Tenayas.

P.S. all the Scarpas and LaSportivas are too chunky for my feet, I've tried them all... There's so much space above my toes or below my high arch.


r/climbingshoes 1d ago

Evolv Phantom sizing vs La Sportiva

1 Upvotes

I'm looking to pick up a pair of Phantoms or Phantom Pros sometime soon and I was curious about how the sizing matches up to La Sportiva. I know La Sportiva's sizing is rough but it's all I've worn. I love my Solutions and I'm only getting Phantoms because I want to try a different brand and I like them aesthetically. I wear a size 10 US in my streets, my Solutions are 41 1/2 EU and fit snugly.


r/climbingshoes 1d ago

Climbing shoes.....help needed!

1 Upvotes

Ive been using the mad rock shark 2.0 for years and i absolutely love it! Since they are not availible anymore i need an alternative wich is as soft as wide ans as agressive as the shark....so far ive not found anything. Theory and drago are too tight....and phantoms way to hard. Thx in advance!!


r/climbingshoes 1d ago

What shoe is this

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0 Upvotes

Title


r/climbingshoes 1d ago

Question about cleaning care for climbing shoes

1 Upvotes

Is there a safe way to hand wash them?

I've heard stories about people running them through the washer, but I don't really wanna test my luck at laundromat.

Is it safe to use warm water with a vinegar solution and a tooth brush to clean them? My main focus is getting the compacted dirt build up and some of the smell out of the inside.


r/climbingshoes 1d ago

Gap between my heel and the shoe makes it hard to heelhook, trying to find a solution with 3D modeling and printing.

0 Upvotes

Basically im thinking i could put something in the heel of my shoe, put my foot in and let it dry to get a mold i can then 3D model and print. Any suggestions for making the mold?


r/climbingshoes 2d ago

Finally got my hands on some D2.1

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33 Upvotes

I sized them 2.5 sizes down from my street shoe size, as recommended from the mountainfootwearproject with size 37.5 la sportiva solutions on competition fit. Im quite excited to try them out and they are pretty comfortable like the solutions, with a very soft inner sock liner. Only complaints I have is the shoe is quite narrow but the upper stretches a good amount to fit my foot, and the heel is a little shallower than I expected. Scarpa instinct vsr lv for reference.


r/climbingshoes 2d ago

Shoe Suggestions for 1st/second shoe

1 Upvotes

I’ve been climbing once a week (about to up it to 2-3 times a week) for about 1–2 months and want to buy my first real pair of shoes. I’ve only used rentals (Tarantulas) but they are starting to limit me on harder climbs and cause me to slip off small footholds.

I want something a little more aggressive but not crazy aggressive. Still want them to be somewhat comfortable so i can put in a lot of hours, but good enough to progress for a while, ideally up to around v7.

I was planning on getting Scarpa Veloce as they seemed exactly what i was looking for, but the heel had a lot of dead space and felt like heel would slip off on heel hooks and the toebox was painful. My feet do lean towards the wider side. I also tried Scarpa Vapour V and they felt good, especially in the heel, but I’m worried they’re too stiff and not great for smearing.

Please give me suggestions on my next shoe so i can order a few to try on since the selection is slim at the only store with climbing shoes here.


r/climbingshoes 2d ago

Help!

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0 Upvotes

Hi, I’m struggling to transition to my second pair of climbing shoes. My first is the La Sportiva Mythos, they are snug and comfy, my street size is 39 and they are a 37.5 (but they don’t look that small next to my everyday shoes). I have slim feet and have tried quite a few shoes, buying online and returning. I got close to ordering La Sportiva Kubo in 38.5 but went on holiday so held off. While on hold in Denmark I went to a climbing shop and the attendant convinced me to go Scarpa Vapor V in a 40. They are shorter than my Mythos and a bit painful but she said no pain no gain and that they would stretch…Have worn them at home for brief periods last 3 days and they are still sore. Should I persevere / is there any hope?


r/climbingshoes 2d ago

Do you know quickly if you will like a new shoe, or does it take a while to grow on you? And how do you change shoes after wearing just one for many years?

3 Upvotes

I've worn drone comps for the last 5 years and love them. They fit well, break in quickly to become "no-edge" and glom onto anything I step on, making them super fun gym shoes. But as a result, they are not so great for edging or precision.

My favorite style of climbing is "board" style and I would like to switch over to a more precise shoe with a stiffer edge, for climbing the moonboard. So I've tried a few - solutions, instinct vsr, and instinct S.

But having climbed in the drone CS for so many years and being so used to them, I kind of hate how any other shoe feels. And I can't tell if it's because they don't fit, because they need to break in more, or if it's just a different toe box shape and so it feels unfamiliar? I have to drop 2-3 moonboard grades to climb in any other show and they all just feel awful and insecure.

So my questions are:

1) How long do you give a new shoe to grow on you before writing it off? Do you know right away if it's a good fit and if you'll like it, or does it take a few sessions over a few weeks?

2) How do you know if a shoe is a bad fit or if it just needs to be broken in? Certain shoes I think are notorious for difficult break in such as the VSR's due to the hard rubber above the toe knuckles. I couldn't deal with the pain (could barely walk), but I don't know if it would have gotten better over a few weeks.

3) How do you guys switch shoes after just wearing a single pair for years and being so familiar with it? Do you just commit to powering through and sacrificing a few weeks of climbing to give the new ones a chance?


r/climbingshoes 2d ago

Morton’s toe

1 Upvotes

Hey yall could anyone point me in the right direction? I’ve been climbing for around 6 months I have scarpa origins but truthfully I don’t love them all that much and am looking to upgrade. I am thinking between the vsr lv and drago xt I really don’t have any where to try these shoes on so just wanting to know what a pretty new person to climbing would likely go to next? I do plan on trialing them but would love it if the next pair I just loved so any tips or personal accounts with either pair and sizing would be welcomed!


r/climbingshoes 2d ago

If I liked the Tanaya RA, I'll love the...

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1 Upvotes

I tried a pair of demo La Sportiva and they KILLED my big toes. Maybe it was the Solution or Skwama, I don't remember. Too hardcore.

I loved these shoes, I'm fine buying another pair, but I'm wondering if theres a "RA Plus" in the Tenaya family.

I mostly keep the upper strap undone for easy on/off. Good enough, I don't heel hook a ton, yet.

I climb in socks (sweaty ass feet).

My Gym does have a couple models, maybe the Oasi? Budget is not really a concern if comfort and performance is combinable.


r/climbingshoes 3d ago

Stiffer Scarpa Veloces

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31 Upvotes

I let my resoler put 5mm Grip2 on my Scarpa Veloce Lace. The model is from the Instinct range, only a tad thicker. I still have to try them out. The Veloces are my favorite shoes, but could sometimes need a bit more stiffness. The resoler also added a thin toerand, because he said the rand was wearing thin. I let him do his thing, and i think he did a great job. He's an official Scarpa/LaSpo/Ocun resoler.

On the pictures, the left/bottom one is unaltered. This is a new pair i bought 3 weeks ago. The resoled pair already were resoled once before with the original S72 rubber. Hopefully this Grip2 will wear out a bit slower.


r/climbingshoes 3d ago

Squama vegan resole

0 Upvotes

Hey, does anyone have experience resoling a lasportiva squama shoe with xs edge rubber? What were the main changes, was the shoe significantly stiffer? This will be the 2nd resole of my shoes, and Im in a dilemma whether Id rather go with the stiffer rubber. The reason being mainly for the durability, since the last resole lasted barely 2.5 months. On the most recent trip I climbed on granit (usually climb on limestone), and also being a bit heavier (90kg) the rubber just disappeared.


r/climbingshoes 3d ago

La sportiva solution/shoes and mondo size

1 Upvotes

I think I use tight street shoes than regular people, I use 41 and for me my solution is 39.5, both OG and comp, and tbh the comp hurts my big toe, I even got dark nails. I have mondo 25.5 cm.

What is your mondo size and what la sportiva (or other shoes) you use? is it me using smaller street shoes or just too me too weak or pain sensible LOL? Btw I have an egipitian feet