Help!

[u/New-Berry-2732]

Hi, I’m struggling to transition to my second pair of climbing shoes. My first is the La Sportiva Mythos, they are snug and comfy, my street size is 39 and they are a 37.5 (but they don’t look that small next to my everyday shoes). I have slim feet and have tried quite a few shoes, buying online and returning. I got close to ordering La Sportiva Kubo in 38.5 but went on holiday so held off. While on hold in Denmark I went to a climbing shop and the attendant convinced me to go Scarpa Vapor V in a 40. They are shorter than my Mythos and a bit painful but she said no pain no gain and that they would stretch…Have worn them at home for brief periods last 3 days and they are still sore. Should I persevere / is there any hope?

[u/Patient_Tomatillo487]

I would return them and get proper fitting in a store :))

[u/New-Berry-2732 → u/Patient_Tomatillo487]

Thanks, I actually did, I wasn’t sure but the attendant convinced me to go with them and tolerate the pain for a short while. I thought on day 3 of gentle breaking in at home they would feel better! I have two days to return them before I leave Denmark but thinking maybe it’s the material that’s hard and it will soften…

[u/sheepborg → u/New-Berry-2732]

As a point of reference a vapor v needs 8-10 full climbing sessions on the shoe before it's feeling close to how it will ultimately feel.

Picking the right climbing shoe is always a process. Not really possible for us to say if the shoe is right or wrong.

Lots of women with narrow heels end up with a vapor V sized 0.5 too small to make up for the mid/large size heel of the shoe, experiencing a disproportionate amount of pain until they switch to a different shoe thats better matched to their foot shape.

[u/Temporary_Spread7882 → u/New-Berry-2732]

Yeah nah they say that but it may or may not work.

The surely very experienced old climber who sold me my first pair of shoes said the same and for months I climbed in pain and couldn’t weight my toes. Knuckle pain btw. I could literally see the texture difference of the bones between inside-outside of the joint pressing through on the skin.

Then after trying on heaps of brands and models I found the Boreals I could finally use my feet in - instant upgrade in skill. Went to slightly more downturned ones years after, the flat-ish shoes were not what held me back until then.

And then I tried a too small and aggro pair for a few sessions and managed to give myself months of bunion pain that is juuuuust about to fade away.

TLDR: mild discomfort is ok and will probs go away, actual pain is bad and there is bound to be a shoe shape that fits better. Keep looking.

[u/New-Berry-2732 → u/Temporary_Spread7882]

Thanks. That’s helpful.