r/climbingshoes • u/rachelKD637 • 2d ago

Unparallel TN Pro LV - Tenaya Oasi LV - comparison?

I love Tenaya Oasi LV, it's hard for me to find any other shoe that fits my skinny feet. Now I'm looking for a shoe with a slightly stiffer midsole. I read good things about UP TN Pro LV and was wondering if someone tried both of these models and can report on the fit?

My street shoe size is 40.5, I wear 38.5 in Tenayas.

P.S. all the Scarpas and LaSportivas are too chunky for my feet, I've tried them all... There's so much space above my toes or below my high arch.

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u/thefakephony 2d ago

The TN pro LV you will want in street shoe size or only 0.5 down maximum. They have a nice heel, and are decently stiff. You can still smear a little on them, however they are much better at small footholds due to the plate in them.

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u/rachelKD637 2d ago

Thanks a bunch!

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u/bchiang7 2d ago

As a fellow skinny foot person, I’ve worn both and in general, the Oasi LVs fit my feet better because of the closure system. My TN Pro LVs have too much volume overall, so there’s dead space in the shoe on top of my foot and the material bunches up. But it’s nothing so serious that I feel like it affects my climbing. For indoor climbing, I like the TN pros better despite the worse fit. The rubber is stickier, toe patch is better, and I find them way better for heel hooks.

For context: 38 street shoe, 37.5 Oasi LVs, 39 TN Pro LVs

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u/rachelKD637 2d ago

Thanks for the input!

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u/Dan_cortez123 22h ago

Have you considered the Tenaya Trafia? They are essentially a lace up version of the oasi and mildly more supportive! Also I hear the Iati is even more supportive than both models, but I have no experience with that shoe.

As for Unparallel, I have tried a few of their shoes. The UP rise, UP rise lv, the NewTro (both Velcro and lace models), and the UP mocc. All of them feel really stiff! Unparallel seems to prefer making shoes that way. The UP rise and Mocc were probably my favorites of the bunch they had enough flexibility to smear but were also stiff enough edge decently well. The NewTros could not smear at all, and only edge. They were quite uncomfortable too, but that’s probably just a personal issue. As for TN pro a friend of mine wears them and they seem to preform very similarly to the NewTro. He prefers them for edging and heel hooks but claims they don’t smear super well. So if you are wanting to forgo smearing I would recommend Unparallel! But if you’d like to retain some softness I think Tenaya would be the better option

I hope that helps!