r/Dublin • u/Cogitoergosum1981 • 8h ago
Ireland's Eye
Ireland's Eye, that tantalising jewel in Howth harbour, holds a captivating history ranging from a haven of faith to a scene of notorious crime. In pre-Christian times, the island was known as Eria's Island and Inis Faithlenn. Its history as a place of spirituality began in the 7th century when a monastery was founded there by three brothers, the sons of Nessan. The island’s Irish name, Inis Mac Nessan, "island of the sons of Nessan," honours them. It was here that these pious monks created the Garland of Howth, a priceless illuminated manuscript of the four gospels, now preserved at Trinity College Dublin.
The church on Ireland's Eye served as the parish church for Howth for centuries, despite the inconvenience of its isolated location. This isolation, however, also made it a prime target for Viking raids. The monastery was plundered in the 9th and 10th centuries, and a Viking force was even besieged and defeated on the island in 897. The church, having been rebuilt several times, eventually fell out of use in the 13th century, but its ruins, including a rare round tower or belfry, still stand today.
Beyond its religious history, the island was a strategic military outpost. In the early 19th century, in response to the threat of a French invasion by Napoleon, a Martello Tower was built on the island's northwest corner. This tower was one of several fortifications built along the Irish coast to defend against attack. The tower was permanently manned and armed, a silent sentry against a threat that never materialised.
Perhaps the most dramatic event in the island's history is the infamous Kirwan murder of 1852. The case involved artist William Burke Kirwan, whose wife, Sarah Maria Louisa, was found dead on the island after a day trip. Kirwan was convicted of her murder, but the verdict, based on circumstantial evidence, was controversial.
Many, including prominent figures like Isaac Butt, believed that Mrs. Kirwan had not been murdered but had drowned after having a fit while swimming. Kirwan's death sentence was commuted to life imprisonment, and he was eventually freed after serving 27 years, leaving a lingering mystery that continues to fascinate.
Today, Ireland's Eye is a protected nature reserve, a sanctuary for a large variety of seabirds, including guillemots, razorbills, fulmars, and even Ireland’s fifth gannet colony on the huge, freestanding rock formation known as "The Stack." I`ll never forget visiting it as a boy with me aulfella, and him nearly boxing the head off two sadistic Spanish students who were casually killing birds with a "black widow" slingshot.
Apart from the avian wildlife, gorgeous Grey seals are also abundant in the surrounding waters. While the island was once part of the Lord of Howth's estate until its sale in 2018, it has seldom been off-limits to the public. Two small boat companies offer trips from Howth harbour, allowing visitors to explore the island, witness its natural beauty, and ponder the many tales of its captivating past.