Can anyone help with these error codes on my 2010 Toyota RAV4 2.2L D-CAT diesel?

P1497 (Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High)

C1280 (Engine Control System Malfunction) - from the 4x4 system

C1201 (Engine/EV Control System Malfunction) - from the ABS system

My dashboard shows “Check Engine System” and “Check 4x4 System”. I also can’t complete the pilot quantity learn because it’s stuck on “Wait” for pilot quantity state as I fitted four new injectors.

Any advice on fixing these codes, what the issue means/is and how to get rid of the code and fix it on my particular car please?

Greetings from Germany

Greeting from Mauritius 🇲🇺

I’m interested in buying a 1989 Toyota Hilux LN65 that has been upgraded with the 2.4L Turbo Diesel (2L-T) engine. From my research, I’ve learned that this engine generally doesn’t match the lifespan of the original naturally aspirated 2.4L diesel, as it is known for overheating issues and, in the worst case, cracked cylinder heads.

My plan is to convert the Hilux with an overhanging camper cabin, so I’m weighing up whether it makes more sense to look for one with the original NA engine instead, or if it’s worth going with the Turbo version and taking the right precautions. I’ve read that the 2L-T can be made much more reliable with a properly optimized cooling system (possibly adding an aftermarket temperature gauge) and even fitting an upgraded cylinder head.

From a driving perspective, I can see that the turbo engine would make the Hilux much smoother and more capable once loaded with a camper. I’ll also attach some pictures of the engine bay of this particular truck, which looks very tidy to me.

What's your opinion on this setup?

Hi everyone,

I'm hoping you can help me unravel a persistent issue with my Toyota. I'm a British expat who shipped my car to Somalia for retirement, and local specialist expertise is hard to come by.

Vehicle Details:

• Model: 2010 Toyota RAV4
• Engine: 2.2L D-CAT Diesel (Reg: YB59 FYS)
• Location: Somalia (Ambient temp is hot, ~30°C)
• Background: The car was undriveable for 6 months due to suspected injector failure.
• Mileage: 74,000 miles

What Was Done:

1. Initially, one injector was replaced, but the car still would not start.
2. Finally, all four brand new injectors were installed. This worked – the car now starts and idles fine with engine running no weird sounds or noise.

The Current Problems & Steps Taken:

Before getting it running, I used my OBD tool (launch x431 elite 2.0 pro for Toyota) to complete the necessary software steps:

1. Cleared the "Pilot Quantity Learning Values".
2. Entered the new injector compensation codes into the ECU via the tool's appropriate menu. (I am confident the codes are correct and entered in the right cylinder order).
3. Initiated the "Pilot Quantity Learning" process.

Here is where I'm stuck:

Problem 1: Stuck Learning Process

The pilot quantity learning process refuses to start properly. The OBD tool shows the conditions for the test. All show "Ready" except for "Pilot Quantity State" which shows "Wait". The tool has been stuck on this for over 40 minutes (it should take 2-10 mins). Online forums suggest the ECU is waiting for perfect idle conditions, but everything seems fine (no rough idle, good temp)?

• Troubleshooting Attempted: I've tried revving the engine slowly to 3k RPM, holding for 1-2 seconds, and repeating 5-10 times to give the ECU data. No change.

Problem 2: Persistent P1601 Code

The error code P1601 Injector Compensation Code keeps immediately coming back after being cleared. This happens even though I'm certain the new codes are entered correctly and saved.

Problem 3: Dashboard Warnings

The "Check 4x4 System" warning is permanently on the dashboard. This first appeared 6 months ago when the injectors originally failed and the DPF was an issue (the DPF was fixed 1.5 years ago). The light does not clear with the OBD tool and remains even with the new injectors installed and codes are cleared. An engine warning light is also present.

Other codes present:

• P1497 ID 0X000C1497 not defined!
• P1601 Injector Compensation Code
• P1497 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High
• P1601 EEPROM Error - Injector Correction Value, DPF Thermal Degradation Record
• P1604 Startability Malfunction
• C1280 Engine Control System Malfunction

Why is p1601 code coming twice once for eeprom error… and one for P1601 Injector Compensation Code?

What I Need Help With:

1. What could cause the "Pilot Quantity Learning" process to be stuck on "Wait" and how to fix this?

2. Why would the P1601 code persist if the injector codes are entered correctly, what possible reasons could make this code appear and how can I fix this? I have checked and entered the codes for injectors many times and saved them but maybe there is something I am missing, doing wrong if anyone can point to the right directions and tips to get this code gone and the ecu accepts the new injectors codes and this fault codes goes away ?

3. What could the "Check 4x4" warning be, from past issues,dpf and injector, it appeared when these issues arose and it still is there despite the car now starting what could this be suggesting now and how to get rid of it if it is an issue.

4. Are there any specific live data parameters I should check with my OBD tool that might shed light on this?

5. Is it safe to drive with P1601 and incomplete Pilot Learning? my logic is If the injectors were not ready to drive surely the car wouldn't idle and rev so smoothly. It feels fine, so are these codes just procedural hurdles, or are they actively telling me something is wrong that could lead to failure

Picture of obd codes and the pilot quantity learning being stuck Links

https://imgur.com/a/SRez6Oq

https://imgur.com/a/8Z48fsQ

https://imgur.com/a/p3h65np

https://imgur.com/a/qUmBBMO

I own a 2010 Hilux and have the engine codes codes POO69 and P1251 coming up constantly sending the car into limp mode, I’ve had it pointed out the previous owner deleted the map sensor, has anyone else had something similar or the same codes, I had the map sensor and turbo actuator replaced and no difference

Truck had European plates and a pretty nice camping setup.

I'm using all stock turbo but remapped hilux 2013.
My best option as of now considering budges is muffler delete.
Will it be better if I do catback instead?

Hi, all. I have n70 hilux and currently looking to change my tray for a tub. It’s just that I’m sick of strapping down every single item. I’ll get a second hand tub and replace it. Is there any mount or bracket needed to put it on? I’m pretty sure my tray is genuine toyota one. Do I need something else like fuel extension or any stuff. Thank you in advance.

Hey, how good is my economy over distance? How do I do it? Come on, torque to me… I always get 7.5litres/100km for highway, awesome vehicle driven wisely.

So this year I bought a new hilux snorkel through Toyota. I dropped the car off in the morning yesterday and 29 hours later haven’t heard anything. Has anyone had a snorkel put on through Toyota with similar experience?

I own a 2017 srv hilux but i cannot withstand the stereo that it has

it just awful and i wanna change it, but i have 2 options a chinese one or buy a 2021 stereo that has android auto and apple car, (thats all i want) but i'm not sure if they are compatible or not.

Anyone can give me a hand?

(my main concern is that i don't know if the rear camera its gonna work and the navigation compass)

Years back, I joined a volunteer group delivering medical supplies to a remote Nepalese village, nestled high in the Himalayas. The only road in was barely a road at all mud, rocks, and steep drops. We had options: a Ford Ranger, Isuzu D-Max, and a Japan Toyota Hilux. The locals didn’t hesitate; but I pointed at the Japan Toyota Hilux and simply said, “it always makes it.” Day one, the D-Max slipped. Day two, the Ranger overheated. But that Japan Toyota Hilux? It roared through like the mountain was a highway. We crossed rivers, hauled gear, even towed a fallen tree out of the path. Not a single breakdown or drama. Just raw reliability. Back home, I kept telling people about that truck how it felt more like a companion than a vehicle. Eventually, I came across a rugged overland conversion kit listed on Alibaba that reminded me of that exact model. It sparked the dream to build my own. Unlike many trucks in its class, the Japan Toyota Hilux proves its worth not through power specs or comfort features, but through consistency in the toughest moments. When conditions get rough, it doesn’t hesitate or overreact, it just keeps going. That kind of reliability builds trust. Over time, the Hilux doesn’t feel like just a vehicle getting you from one place to another.But It becomes part of the journey itself, something you count on, something that shares the weight of where you’re headed. While other trucks might struggle to keep up, the Hilux simply endures. I’ve driven plenty of rigs, but only one felt alive.

How the hell do I unscrew the front differential fill plug when it’s covered by the chassis, I have a 2017 hilux gun126

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I drive a 2020SR and wondering what settings to use for beach (soft sand) driving. I'm guessing Power mode, low 4. Do I put the transmission in 2, 3 or just leave it in drive? And drop the psi to 18?

Hey everyone,

I bought my 2012 N70 about a month ago and at the moment its got a tub with a hard shell lid. Im looking at putting a tray and canopy on however and struggling at finding a tray to put on that doesn't set me back a few thousand dollars. There isnt much in terms of second hand trays that i can find on Facebook Marketplace, Grays etc. Just wondering if anyone has gone down this route of getting a second hand tray can help point me in the direction I need to go. I have a mate that is going to help me with installing the tray and has pointed me to finding a tray specific for the N70 rather than moving mounting points.
Also, any recommendations and pointers with a canopy too would be great!

Appreciate you guys.

Thanks

Richard