Recs for first Isle Royale backpacking trip

[u/zday15]

Hey y’all, I’m heading to Isle Royale for the first time July 5 - July 8 for a 4 day / 3 night backpacking trip. My itinerary is looking fairly finalized, but I’m open to any insights and recommendations on things to add/remove/ avoid/stop at along the trail! I live out in western North Carolina and hike regularly, so I’m not too concerned about adding extra distance or elevation to the trip. Thank you!!

July 5 * Ferry from Copper Harbor: leave 8am arrive at Rock Harbor visitor center ~12pm * Stop at Rock Harbor visitor center for daily passes/any extra supplies * Hike: Rock Harbor to Mount Franklin * Leave around 2pm * ~4.7 miles * Backcountry camping around Mount Franklin (is that allowed or should I go to a nearby campground?)

July 6 * Hike: Mount Franklin to West Chickenbone Campground * Leave around 9:30-10am * ~9.7 miles * Camp at West Chickenbone Campground (I’ve heard McCargoe Cove Campground is good, is it worth the extra distance to stay there instead?)

July 7 * Hike: West Chickenbone Campground to Daisy Farm Campground * Leave around 9:30-10am * ~9.1 miles * Camp at Daisy Farm Campground

July 8 * Hike: Daisy Farm Campground to Rock Harbor Visitor Center * Leave around 7:30 to get back to Rock Harbor by 1:30 at the latest for 2:45 ferry * ~6.8 miles

[u/Lower_Molasses2748]

My advice is to use the campgrounds. There is almost no where to legally backcountry camp. You need to be at least 1/4 mile from the trail, and it is very hard to find a flat open place to pitch a tent. Plus there is no water. In addition, the area around Mount Franklin is closed to cross country camping.

[u/Tetradrachm → u/Lower_Molasses2748]

Agree with this guy - find a campground. I believe you also need a permit to do the backcountry camping, which requires some other hoops to jump through. The campgrounds are great, you are going to have a lovely trip!

[u/nab1676 → u/Lower_Molasses2748]

In fourth grade, my dad and I did this exact loop. Let’s say the planning wasn’t the best, but we did it. One night we managed to camp at angleworm lake, which is the long lake east of chicken bone (runs along the greenstone) due to the lack of water. Let’s just call it a learning experience. I would also recommend a camp ground. I learn that I am a sweaty person and need extra water. I carry a lot but I’m fortunately strong.

[u/zday15 → u/Lower_Molasses2748]

Sounds good, thanks for the insight! Looking at the map it seems like the best/closest option would be to hike a couple miles north of Mt Franklin to the Lane Cove Campground for the night. Would that be your recommended move?

[u/Lower_Molasses2748 → u/zday15]

I have not been to Lane Cove (yet). It's supposed to be beautiful, but it's a steep in and out with a full pack. However, it is definitely doable for a first night when you come in on the ferry.

Have a great trip!

[u/ninjunkie21 → u/zday15]

Lane Cove for your first night is a great idea. It’s a nice change from the southeast side of the island, and climbing back out isn’t that bad if you do an early start. Enjoy!

[u/neonflannel → u/zday15]

I gotta say, Lane Cove was a gem. Gorgeous hike, barely anyone else around, just us and two other groups. The shallow water around the campground was absolute gold. No muck, just sweet sand and the perfect place to soak your tired, possibly regretful legs after a “let’s take the long route” kind of day.

[u/Legitimate-Donkey477 → u/Lower_Molasses2748]

While this is true, on my last trip there were at least three parties camped within 100 yards of the Franklin Tower and yet to break camp when I hiked by from Daisy Farm around 10AM. More douche bags every time I go, it seems.

[u/remes1234]

Similar to my 2022 route. I would take a few more miles and stay at McCargo cove. One of my favorite spots.

[u/shooter612 → u/remes1234]

I’d second this. I was just there a couple weeks ago and McCargo Cove and Moskey Basin were our favorite sites

[u/kelphead → u/remes1234]

I wouldn’t miss McCargoe cove if you have the chance. It was one of my favorite places. The chicken bones don’t compare.

[u/donkeyheaded]

I can certainly vouch for McCargoe Cove. I didn't stay at West Chickenbone, but if you don't mind the extra couple miles, I'm sure you'll enjoy McCargoe. It's one of the few sites on Isle Royale where you can build a campfire, which is a treat. Also, the bay is beautiful at that site. Last year we hiked from Daisy Farm to McCargoe in one day and it wasn't bad at all. We heard wolves howling all night at McCargoe.

I don't know if you can camp at Mt Franklin. I never saw any restrictions about backcountry camping. However, camping up on that ridge can probably be pretty exposed, but the upside is you might have some wonderful views of the night sky. Just beware that most of the wolf population is on the east side of the island.

Have fun, I was there last fall and it was wonderful!

[u/N8ureP]

That route you have mapped out is pretty epic. Do that. I backpacked the entire Greenstone Ridge Trail and loved it. Highly recommend. I’d do the Minong when I go back again, but first time there I’d definitely pick Greenstone Ridge.

[u/imagebiot]

That’s a great route

[u/Straight_Layer8632]

Jealous. Years ago we backpacked in the Porkies with an 11 and 2 year old. Miss those days. Have fun!

[u/Reginald_J_Gopta]

Howdy!

Beginner here who just finished his first Isle Royale / backpacking trip in early June.

To be honest, I feel like this route is a bit aggressive. My route was rock harbor to 3 mile > 3 mile to daisy farm > and then daisy farm to rock harbor via the green ridge. That last day was about 9 miles and man did it empty the tank.

I’m a fairly experienced hiker, but the rough terrain of isle Royale combined with a heavy pack and the need to filter water, camp etc. made the days longer.

Additionally, the stress of trying to make your ferry ride does not seem worth it. We were hiking about 45 min / mile without even stopping much so you would have to get up extremely early your last day to make it. This is assuming you have enough energy to do so.

I would highly suggest taking a less aggressive route and give yourself more time to relax, enjoy the scenery, and even take advantage of some of the amenities on the island like the boat rides / rentals. (Our 4th day we did no hiking and rented a boat to explore the islands near rock harbor. Was my favorite experience there!)

[u/puppiesandcleavage]

Definitely stay in the campsites and pack a cheap ankle brace incase cause them are some very rugged trails

[u/Lower_Molasses2748 → u/puppiesandcleavage]

A fellow camper gave me a knee brace a few years ago. He saved my trip.

[u/YankeeDog2525]

Just want to mention that back country permits are not a big deal with no extra hoops. The problem is that at least of the NE end there are not that many suitable spots in the back country. The vegetation can be very thick and the terrain rugged. And water can be a problem. There a reason the campgrounds are where they are.

Oh and Daisy Farm sucks. Crowded and the bathrooms will make you puke. Next time we are going to start from Windigo.

[u/Desertmarkr → u/YankeeDog2525]

I did the Feldtman lake, siskiwit bay, Island mine loop from windigo and it was fantastic. Camping on the water two nights plus varied terrain and several moose made it a great trip.

[u/northwoodsdistiller → u/YankeeDog2525]

The mud and bugs at Daisy this year were nuts. Worst it’s ever been in the last 5 years. Apparently the beavers are winning.

[u/kanyesrevenge]

Buddies and I did 4 days, 3 nights on the island. We went from Rock Harbor visitor center to Daisy Farm, and then from Daisy Farm to Lake Richie campground the next night. From Lake Richie, we did the entire Greenstone Ridge and camped out at Daisy Farm again for the last night. Fair warning, Greenstone Ridge has no water and it is a very long hike, and bugs are terrible. You might be okay staying at Chickenbone for the night.

[u/TrulyMix]

Hiking IR is harder than you might think. I'd do an easier route and take time to enjoy the trail. I also encourage using the campgrounds and established trails. I've only bushwacked once and that was to hike a wide berth around a mama moose. My legs were cut up from sawgrass and it was a hard haul to get back to the trail.

I like the Lane Cove route. It's enough of a challenge to give you a good workout. The campground is rustic, quiet, with sites right on the water. It's probably my favorite stop.

I hope you enjoy your first experience on the island.

[u/Creative-Aide-9834]

I did 15 days ending on June 21 and I also agree with most people that the hiking is harder than you think. Lot's of exposed roots, small rocks, large rocks and bald faced rocks. I fell flat on my face one time and then slowed down. I met a guy on the trail who slipped on a wet bald faced rock and broke his ribs. I had to hike to a ranger station to get a boat for him. Figure 2 mph or less. It's not like you can get humming and constantly do 3mph on a wide dirt path like many trails